Grenada: A Spice Island Treasure
Photos and Story by Tab Hauser (tabh@hascorelays.com)
For the last 10 years Grenada has always been a place I wanted to visit. The reason for my wish to come here was because of its reputation of having beautiful waterfalls, good diving, hiking, friendly people, locally produced delicious food and great weather. Getting here always required a plane change with limited and expensive flights during the Presidential Week vacation. When I read that Air Jamaica had direct service I put in for tickets 10 months in advance and got what was suppose to be a direct flight and seats. Unfortunately the flight was changed to a one stop through Barbados having us leave 7AM instead of 10:30. Also our seat assignment meant nothing to Air Jamaica as when we got the airport 95 minutes my family's seats were given away having us sit all over the plane. Another family had 2 in their group bumped with no compensation or apologies offered. Further, when we asked Air Jamaica at the gate if they asked for volunteers first for getting bumped they said yes but did not. In chatting with people on the flight down, no one said they had been asked to volunteer their seats as is traditionally done on other carriers. Another minor hitch was that one of our pieces of luggage did not make it Grenada. This did not bother us so much as the fact that it took 3 days of literally begging for someone to trace it and see where it was. No one really cared to help and the promises of getting a call back on the luggage never materialized. Getting bad service from an airline is one thing, getting lied to by an airline is another. This is the second time I have flown Air Jamaica in 8 weeks where service was poor.
With the flight issues and a quick stop at Customs behind us, we were pleased to see our bus that the Grenada Grand Resort had sent waiting for us. After a 7 minute ride from the airport with a stop at a supermarket for snacks, “good” rum, water and juice it was off to the beach. About a week before leaving home I started to count the days down until I would stick my toes in the warm sand and forget about the 3 inches of ice in my driveway and 9 straight days I woke up to 16 to 18 temperatures. That moment arrived late in the afternoon on our first day with a local rum punch in my hand and the calm seas of Grand Anse Beach in front of me with my toes nice and warm in the soft sand.
For dinner the first night we walked to a very casual and inexpensive place called the La Château. Here we ordered sautéed conch (lambie as it is known locally), wings, local soup, Caribbean chicken and rum punches for the adults and Ting’s for the kids. Ting is a delicious all natural grapefruit soda made in Jamaica and Grenada.
Grand Anse Beach Looking South From Coconuts
The first day we spend lounging at the Grand Grenada Resort and soaking in the waters of the Caribbean Sea. We walked the beach in the morning to make dinner reservations at Coconuts then lounged in our chairs reading or napped underneath the coconut trees trying to get our minds into vacation mode. My big activity that afternoon was to use one of the hotels complimentary Hobie Cats for sail up the beach. Dinner that night was at Coconuts with our table in the sand and the bay just 40 feet away.
On our second morning the weather turned to overcast with some rain. Rather than stay in our rooms we decided to explore the town of St George. We took the No.1 bus and with beat of calypso music in the speakers we zipped through town until we reached the terminal. From the bus terminal in St. George we strolled up to the spice and vegetable market. Here you can smell and purchase the different spices on the island along with getting a freshly chopped coconut with straw to refresh yourself. At the spice market you can get nutmeg almost everyway possible. This includes, whole, ground, in delicious syrup and even in a product called “Nut-Med” which sprays on your skin and helps relieve minor pains. (I tried it and found it soothing). From there we had a local lunch of conch and chicken at a place called Deyna’s which was around the block from the market and on the main road near the terminal.
St George's Market Square for Produce and Spices
Many of the different home grown spices are available at reasonable prices
We continued up the main road towards the fort when a young man named Roger solicited us for him to guide us around town and the fort on the hill. His fee he said was strictly a tip so we took him on. Roger guided us up the stairs to the fort. The view with by the old canons should not be missed. He pointed out the two forts further up the hills nearby looking down on us and explained that once when the fort was taken by the British from the French, the French simply pelted the fort with canon balls forcing the British to leave. Eventually the British came back and took and kept the island until its independence in 1974. Roger’s brief history lesson eventually moved up to 1983 when we were in the courtyard of the fort where Prime Minister Maurice Bishop and half his cabinet were assassinated. A plaque on the wall bears the names of those who died. Next to the plaque is basket ball court still used today with 6 bullet holes in it in the pole. Roger explained how Social Democrats of Bishop’s cabinet were not communist enough for the more radical half of his government that was backed by the Cuban’s. The assassinations were followed up by some street fighting which eventually ended when the U.S. dropped in troops about a week later. We are happy to say that that this very brief violent week over 20 years is well behind everyone on this island and they are happy to see Americans. (Ironically, most tourists we met not on from cruise ship were Canadian’s)
Caterpillar at Fort George
Views from the Fort looking towards St. George.
The Square in Ft George where coupe took place in 1983
Our third day in Grenada was our inland adventure. Today we hired a mini-bus to go to 3 places. Our first stop was to hike around the 36 acre Lake Etang sitting in a volcanic crater. This hike was more or less a walk in the mud for an hour an ten minutes through what the Grenada web site says is “5 distinct sub-climatic communities of different flora and fauna”.
"Wild" Monkey's In Parking Lot By Lake Etang Trail In Grenada
We did find our hike lush in vegetation, very low on mosquitoes and high in goopy mud that was sometimes up to our calves. The teens who were totally unprepared for the hike and did most of the trail barefoot rather than loose there balance on their flip flops. We found the hike was fun and had a good mixture of complaining and laughing.
Grand Etang Lake and the muddy trail around it
With Front & Muddy Views: Tab Hauser, Doug and Nancy Baldwin, Mike, Sandy, Alison and Daniel Ehrlich, Ashley and Robert Baldwin, Daniel and Maureen Hauser with David Ehrlich on the right. (note smiles!)
Following the hike our van continued on for another 10 minutes where we met a guide for some river tubing. Here we were given a quick safety briefing, life jackets and a big yellow tube with a wooden bottom to start an exhilarating and refreshing tube ride. At first we started in the “lazy river” section where we would float with the current laughing and bumping into each other. When we got near the rapids we would try to align up with what looked like a “chute” between the rocks. Once in the chute the tube would bump and spin off the rocks while you would hold on tight to hand grips. In between the rapids we would float lazily under the tall trees or our guide laying on his stomach paddling would bump and prod us to the next set of rapids. Everyone in our group loved this 40 minute trip and probably would not hesitate to do it again when we come back.
River Tubing In Grenada Is A Refreshing Experience
Our last event of the day was a visit to the Seven Sisters Waterfall. To get to Seven Sisters Falls you need to take a moderate mostly down hill hike which takes you to the two lower falls. Much of trail was wet from recent rains with mud in different areas. In the middle of the hike we came to realize why they call this place a rainforest as half way in, it started to poor on us for about 10 minutes. The 25 minute hike (with walking sticks supplied by the property owners) was worth it once we got the falls. Here the skies cleared up and a picture postcard waterfalls dropping into a perfect swimming hole appeared before us. While floating about in the cool natural pool a local told us to have our camera ready for a breathtaking 45 foot dive adjacent to the falls. From there he did a running dive from the top of second falls into the lower pool. This second dive was trickier because it was not a straight drop down. All in all we were pretty pleased to have this gorgeous place to ourselves for the time we were there. The hike back up seemed easier due to the rain stopping and getting a better footing going up hill. In the parking lot we celebrated with Ting’s and Carib’s available in the office before heading on the bus and back to the Grand Anse Beach.
Lower Falls of Seven Sisters Falls
Nature At Its Best
Rain Forest Hike Back To Mini Bus
After spending the entire day sweaty, wet and muddy we decided to go as we were for our most casual dinner of the week at the medical complex on Grand Anse Beach. We started our day with breakfast here and noticed several ladies cutting and chopping the islands local produce into several large pots. These pots turned into outstanding fish stews, curried lamb, beef and pork stews as well as macaroni pie and salads. For about $8 each we ate delicious home cooked food while watching dusk fall over the Caribbean Sea. The walk to our hotel from here was about 10 minutes where badly needed showers and a cocktail awaited us.
Good Home Cooking on Grand Anse Beach
After a day of resting, lounging and diving at the hotel we decided it was time to explore the island on our own. With three rented 4 X 4 vehicles we were off to the north coast. To get there our group took the south and then eastern roads going through small fishing villages as well as the large town of Grenville. Our first destination was the Belmont Estate. We made it here in just less than 2 hours due to a stop to replace a torn tire at Maggie’s Auto Supply Store just south of Grenville. For $2US or $5EC we got a tour and were showed a video on how cocoa is made and processed there. At first our tour guide took a 10 inch long orange pod cut in half and showed us the raw cocoa seeds. She then went through the labor intensive steps used to ferment the beans for a week, then dry and clean the beans.
Cocoa Beans Drying in the Sun
Port Washington People At The Belmont Estate Where Cocoa and other spices are processed
All the beans at the estate are dried in very large trays open to the sun. When they are on the tray a barefooted employee walks through them every 30 minutes raking them around so the beans are rotated for maximum drying. In the event of rain the trays are either pushed under a shelter or a large roof is rolled over them to keep them dry. They also are covered at night. After seeing this process and the machines used to polish the beans, a video is turned on to explain the remaining process from bean to actual recognizable sauce and bars. After the video we were given a cup of homemade hot chocolate. This is made from the pressed beans grinded down and then melted in milk. Sugar is usually added to ones taste. To finish the 20 minute tour we were taken to table with most of Grenada’s spices and some of its produce. Each item was talked about briefly. The yam is what got the attention of some in our group because it was cut in half yet was still about foot long by several inches wide.
From the Belmont Estate we proceeded another 5 minutes up the road to the
Grenada Chocolate Factory. This a good way to see how the cocoa beans are
finished into chocolate as well as sample the 60% and 71% hand made and wrapped
chocolate bars. At this factory 85 pounds of finished chocolate are produced
daily with plans to nearly triple it in the future. (It should be noted that
the owner uses solar energy to partly run his machines). Chocolate bars are
$4US or $10EC and refined 4 ounces of unsweetened powder for hot chocolate is
$2US or $4EC. Considering how labor intensive the chocolate process is, we
considered the prices at the Grenada Chocolate Factory a bargain.
"Chillin" at Bathway Beach
Levera Beach to Sandy Island
From Grenada Chocolate Factory we drove north to Bathway Beach. This is a very pretty beach on the most north east part of the island with scenic views of the nearby small islands and cliffs along the north end of the beach. Bathway Beach has a change facility and a couple of stalls for food. Our group had an tasty inexpensive lunch of grilled chicken and fries at Sylvia’s beach shack before cooling off in the water. It should be noted that if you swim here you will not be able to go safely out in the open ocean because Hurricane Ivan chewed and spit out the reef forming rectangle blocks where the waves crash on. The good news is that in front of the blocks, natural pools formed where it is very comfortable to swim and soak. Warnings signs about strong currents are posted here but you are quite safe in the protected area between sand boulders. After staying a while we put our little 4 X 4’s to good use for an off road trek to Levera Beach. We liked Levera Beach and would have stayed had it not been so late in the afternoon. This beach is all sand with small waves rolling in and at times a nasty current running in between Sandy Island and the beach. Backtracking from Lavera Beach we found another dirt road we had hoped would take us across the northern tip of the island rather than having us return the same way. This road took us to a big abandoned home on a hill that was restored with a new roof, pillars but no inner or outer walls. The view from this structure was amazing and someday if the owner finishes the work it will be an incredible place to live or vacation. We continued on the dirt track the road got so narrow that the car would have been scratched by the bushes on both sides. Seeing that we were not going through we turned back to and made our way to the Grenada Grand Resort.
Open Air Mansion Partially Restored With View Out to Levera Beach and then on to Carriacou
For dinner tonight we decided to celebrate my wife’s birthday by going to the Aquarium near the airport. During the day you can come here and swim and snorkel the reefs just offshore and then have lunch or dinner just steps away from the beach. At night you see the lights of Grand Anse beach and St. George in the distance. We recommend the food here but watch out for slow service if you are in a group. Once we spoke to the manager about being ignored we were waited on with 3 people, and given a second bottle of wine as well as the garlic cheese breads on the manager. Their house specialty appetizer is a Callaloo Canneloni baked in a cheese sauce. This really should be shared as it is on the heavy side but truly delicious dish. I ordered the 5 seared scallops cooked perfectly for a first course. Main dishes by the group included coconut shrimp, blue corn crusted fish, lobster, mahi-mahi, steak and beef Wellington. Everyone enjoyed their food with the only regrets for some not sharing appetizers as we were all stuffed. We did enjoy one desert and that was the chocolate mousse just so we can put a candle in it and sing happy birthday.
Our last full day was spent lounging around in the morning followed by a prearranged snorkel trip by David Daniel of Viking Boat Taxi service. David is the man that took us from the Carnage in St. George harbor back to Grenada Grand hotel a few days earlier. To do this snorkel trip he had us visit a few bays to look for clear water. David explained that there were some unusual swells coming out of the west that was churning the water up making visibility low on the coral reef. After a quick visit to three bays he and his mate dropped us off at one point and picked us up at another always keeping an eye out to see if anyone wanted to come in early. This was nice as we were able to cover a lot of water with out coming back to the boat. During our snorkeling we were able to see coral in good condition as well as the usual assortment of small tropical fish. Earlier in the week four of us did a one tank dive off Grand Anse Beach. We found the conditions very good but the visibility at 40 to 50 feet due to a cloudy sky and sediment churned up by earlier swells. A Philadelphia dive club we met the day before were on their twelve dive of the week and told us that Grenada had been an excellent dive island vacation for them.
Sunset Over St George
Mike Ehrlich With Dinner Companion On Friday Fish Festival In Gouyave
Fish available fried, grilled, poached and even Fish Pizza!
Food Stalls on Narrow Street In Gouyave
On Friday evening we arranged to have a mini-bus pick us up 6 PM to take us to the Gouyave Fish Friday Festival. Gouyave is Grenada’s “fishing capital” and is an old but moderate size village. A couple of years ago to spark business someone must have thought of copying the Oisten’s Fish Fry in Barbados. In Gouyave the action starts from about 6:30 with a dozen vendors set up on two narrow streets to sell fried, grilled, stir fried and poached fish. There is also a fish pizza stand and another one selling lobsters of all different sizes. Along with the main course there are typical island side dishes of grilled bread, macaroni pie and rice. We found the fish and lobster very fresh, plentiful and reasonably priced. Two things to note if you go are that there are no meats served at any of these booths. If you are with someone that does not eat fish they will only be able to enjoy the side dishes and ice cream. The other thing to note is that Gouyave is halfway of the western coast 15 miles from Grand Anse Beach. This is on a winding road that takes 45 minutes. If you do not like to drive on the wrong side in the dark on narrow roads arrange transportation. Also, allow 2 hours in the village to take it all in. The earlier you go the less crowded it gets. I was advised things hop until late at night. This is also a good place to mix with Grenada’s friendly people.
After spending a week here we can only feel sorry for the people that come off the cruise boats and spend several hours here. Our Port Washington group were only here 6 full days and we can not wait to come back. While we did much during our stay but our group now talks about a future trip back to see the other estates, beaches and waterfalls missed on this trip.
The Details:
Grenada Grand Beach Resort is a couples or family resort located on Grand Anse Beach. This is a pretty 2 mile stretch of white powdered sand. The hotel grounds are very nice with nice shrubs, flowers and tall coconut trees. There is ample room to catch shade or sun on the grounds between the buildings and a white picket fence where the beach starts. You can also take lounge chairs to the beach. Locals walk by during the day with all kinds of souvenirs. They are friendly and will strike up a conversation with you from the beach side of the fence if you stay on the property. We found with a little bargaining the goods we bought were acceptable. If you did not have money or say no thanks they left you alone. The hotel has two pools and two pool bars where you can order lunch. One pool was basic but the main pool had a bridge in the middle and a waterfall on the sides. Our group stayed in beach front rooms. These rooms we found to be basic and pleasant with tile floors, patio, A/C, cable TV and a hairdryer. We did not care for the breakfast buffet and got food from the market across the street or down the beach. We also did not think the lunch buffet was a good value but did like the roti’s, wraps and salads ordered by the pool bar. We found the staff at the Grenada Grand always pleasant to deal with. For details go to www.grenadagrand.com
Getting There:
The easiest way is American Airlines with service through San Juan or Air
Jamaica through Barbados and Kingston.
Getting Around:
Buses: An easy and cheap way to get around would be to take the 12 passenger public “buses”.
Taxis: There are plenty of taxis on the island of all sizes. If you use a taxi get a rate from a driver in the parking lot and not from hotel as you may pay more for the ride.
Rental Cars: There a several rental car companies on the island. The roads can be narrow in places and the driving is on the left. My tip for those that like to drive is to tape a small 2 inch sign with the words “Think Left” and place it just under your line of sight. I find this helps me remember in case my mind wanders off.
Tour Vans: All hotels offer tours with vans attached or contracted to them. For the best rate negotiate with any taxi driver you meet and you are comfortable with. This can save up to 1/3 of the cost of a van for the day
Dining:
Patrick’s 473-440-0364
I am going to list Patrick’s first because his write up in the local guide book says he is the most unique restaurant in Grenada. Nothing can be truer that that comment. Patrick creates and cooks at least a dozen dishes that are placed on your table. The food he serves is typical for Grenada and there is something served that the pickiest person will eat. When in Grenada do not miss dinner at Patrick’s. This is small place so make reservations.
Le Chateau: 473-444-2552
The is nothing French about this very casual bar and Restaurant but it does serve reasonably priced West Indies cuisine. You can walk here from all the hotels on Grand Anse Beach.
The Red Crab: 473-444-4424
A casual West Indies and fish place that we found acceptable with moderate prices.
The Aquarium: 473-444-1410
You can spend a day here on the beach and then have a really nice lunch or dinner.
Gouyave Fish Friday Festival. (see details above)
Medical Center on Grand Anse Beach: This is the farthest thing you will ever have to hospital food. Each day there are several delicious stews and dishes that are made fresh and home cooked by 6 ladies in an open air kitchen 50 feet from the water. This place will be closing and moving before the end of 2007 so go while it is here and then find out where it moved to. Bathing suit attire is very acceptable. The last dinner is served about 7 but if you order before 6 you save $5EC.
Things to Do:
River Tubing: funsun@spiceisle.com or 473 439 3925
Viking Water Taxi : Cell 473 456-8462 For snorkeling, taxi service, sightseeing or fishing.
Grenada Chocolate Factory : For info go to www.grenadachocolate.com
Belmont Estate: 473-442-9524 belmontestate@spiceisle.com
In Sight Tourism: Bentley 473-444-3697 In Sight is Grenada Grand Beach Resort’s on sight tour and taxi service. Their service to and from the airport as well as our day tour was very good.
King Elvis Taxi and Tour Service: Keith Cell 473-407-0011. Keith was about half the price to take us to restaurants then the hotel operator. He has rates on all tours as well.
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Roger the Tour Guide : St George 473-537-0867 We found him knowledgeable on history and nature as well as patient as we went into shops we wanted to go.
Info: www.grenadaexplorer.com and www.grenadagrenadines.com are web sites helpful in finding things to do as well as hotels.
Email: tabh@hascorelays.com if you have any questions or comments
Seven Sisters Falls Diver