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Zion National Park, 3 Refreshing Days

The town of Springdale, Utah is one of majestic scenery and one worth visiting. For this is the gateway to Zion National Park. I headed to this area of America’s west for a long weekend before doing a trade show in Las Vegas. It is amazing that in just under a 3 hours drive one can be transformed from a city where everything is glitzy and manmade to one of nature’s wonders.

Springdale is a small community of about 400 people. Its main road is lined with hotels, shops and restaurants where one can stay and eat with easy and quick access to the park. From April to October one can get into the park by using the free shuttle bus that picks people up in different place in town and drives them to the park entrance. After paying the park fees they then hop another bus that goes up the canyon making stops along the way for hikers to hit the trails or for people to get out and admire the scenery. Two of the stops include the lodge and museum center.

View From Our Balcony of Pioneer Hotel Park Entrance Less Than 2 Miles Away

We arrived into Springdale Friday an hour before sunset. We quickly checked into the Pioneer Hotel and walked around town admiring the changing colors of the high cliffs just outside town. Being exhausted from getting up early, flying to Las Vegas and driving to Springdale we decided to call it an early night after dinner as we wanted to be well rested for morning “canyoneering” adventure.

At 8AM we met our guide Jeremy Draper at Zion Rock & Mountain Guides. There he explained what our day of canyoneering was going to be like and was fitted with the proper gear and helmet.

Canyoneering is a term used to hike into remote areas such as slot canyons where rappelling is necessary. Jeremy asked us if we wanted the wet hike of the dry one. The wet one meant donning insulated water proof clothing and boots and then hike and rappel into the slot canyons where water was actively running through it. This meant not only hiking and rappelling in the water but wading through it at different depths. Being that this was the end of March and the weather was chilly we opted for the dry hike.

Getting to "Cave Valley" by Company Jeep Between A Rock and Hard Place On Trail

With the forms filled out we hopped into their off road capable Jeep for the drive to an area just adjacent to Zion Park. We learned we can canyoneer on our own in the park with a permit but have a guide was not permitted in the park boundaries. We would hike up and through the rock formation near Kolab Trail Road and then rappel once 40 feet, then scramble down a steep slide like rock formation tethered to a rope and then rappel down another cliff about 30 feet finishing off the experience by fitting through one of the tightest slot type canyons one could find. Jeremy picked this place as it is suited for beginners.

Guide Jeremy Draper Explaining How To Get Control of First Steps Maureen Hauser Controlling Her Decent

To get to what they called “Cave Valley” we turned off the Kolab Terrace Road after a few miles and then drove half a mile on a dirt road where we intruded on a couple playing their guitar in front of a fire by their tent. We then walked a quarter mile past the sight on a path that lead us through opening narrow enough to only fit our body and then up a sandy hill to the top of a large rock formation. At the top Jeremy showed two loops put into the side of the wall where we attached ropes. This was at the end of the path leading to a 40 foot drop. He then hooked himself up to the ropes he brought and showed us how to rappel and control our decent with one hand while the other hand would keep the line to the side. He taught us how to control our speed going down but also said in the event of a problem he would have us attached to another rope in which he can stop any free falling if we were to panic. Maureen my wife went first. After she was tied up to the rope she was able to practice holding her weight on the rope before going off the edge. She also got comfortable with the way one controls ones speed down. Human instinct tells us not to go over wall so it takes baby steps to do this the first time and with Jeremy’s guidance she slowly put her back to the open and feet on the edge and slowly walk down the wall keeping feet nearly parallel to backside. We were able to see her go down the first 30 feet. Due to the way the wall was formed she was out of sight the last 10 feet before touching bottom. She seemed comfortable and went down at a nice pace with a smile the entire way. I was next. Being one that is not thrilled with heights I was not quite sure how I would do going over the side.

Tab Hauser With Camera In Tow 1st Time Over Our First Wall

Looking Up At Jeremy Who is Holding Safety Line Looking Down At Maureen (looking up was better!)

I like Maureen, practiced keeping my weight on the rope before going over and when I was somewhat comfortable put my butt over the side and feet at the edge taking baby steps until I was in the right position. From there I released the rope a little at a time until I was halfway down. At that point I ask Jeremy to lock in place so I can do a few photos without the fear of crashing to the ground. With camera was tucked safely in my jacket I descended one step at a time announcing when I was on the soft red colored sand. Jeremy then sent the packs and extra rope down and descended on his own without the belay or back up line. Our next experience was to be simply tethered to a rope and scramble on all fours down a natural slide like formation with Jeremy holding the rope in case we slipped. After walking 10 yards we were then hooked up again for another drop but this one only 30 feet. This time were knew what to expect. Maureen went down very sure footed while I pretended to be a U.S. Ranger bouncing down a few feet a time off the smooth wall with my feet landing on the ground quickly. After Jeremy came down and the ropes were packed we continued by passing through the narrowest passage way I have ever been in. It was so tight that we had to pass the pack packs through first keep my camera gear on the side of my body while negotiating the different rocks to step on while coming down.

Lowering by Back to One Side, Feet On The Other Just Tight Enough Out to Snowy Side

In certain parts the only way to go down was to put your back and elbows on one side of the wall and your legs on the other lowering yourself very slowly. Once out of the slot we were out in the open standing on snow. This was interesting as we went from dry sandy surface at the beginning to snow at the end. We walked about 150 feet until we must have been out of the shadow of the rocky bluff and then into the dry desert sand where the sun warmed us up instantly. The canyoneering section only took a couple of hours. Jeremy asked us we wanted to do it again but instead we had him drive us into the middle of the park until we hit snow and could not go anymore. From there we took a dirt road that bordered the park and eventually made the drive back to Jeremy’s shop getting back at 1:30.

Going From Snow To Desert View in 200 Yards From Slot Canyon

Grazing Outside of Zion Park Borders

After a fast lunch at the sandwich place next to the Pioneer we got on the shuttle bus by the hotel to see Zion Park. In the park we found the bus system working well. The is friendly sounding recording over the speakers that discusses the stops briefly that was helpful when used with the map the rangers give you at the entrance. This afternoon we decided to keep the hiking to shorter scenic places. We stopped Court of the Patriarch’s where you strolled up to a viewing point to see 3 tall sand stone formations one way and small waterfall the other. From there we got back on the bus a few stops and walked the .25 mile trail uphill to Weeping Rock. This was a pretty afternoon hike because the lighting on the water coming over the cliff was very good. Usually you see water dripping out of the rock face (which we did) but being that there was melting snow, water was flowing over the high point here. From Weeping Rock we took the bus to the last stop to stroll the easy 2 mile round trip Riverside Walk that takes you up the narrows. This trail gives you a sense of how the canyon closes in the north end while having the river flow to your left. To get a real feel of this narrow gap you need to rent or bring waterproof and insulated foot wear and a stick and hike another mile up the shallow river to where the canyon walls feel like they close in on you. We saw people coming off the river and said the hike is worth it. If you come during the summer I would suspect any foot wear you do not mind getting wet would work. Keep in mind though that flash floods do occur in this river and if you go be mindful of any park warnings and rain in the area. Also, there is a very tall waterfall worth admiring on the way back near the bus stop if conditions are right.

View From The Top Of Canyon Overlook Trail

Green River View From Bridge View From River Walk Hike

After our very pleasant river walk we rested up a little at the Pioneer Hotel before doing some fine dining at the Spotted Dog. There are many good places to eat in Springdale but only one place that is a bit upscale. Here we found the service matched with the good food served.

For our second day in area we decided to take advantage of our Jeep and try to find some roads off the beaten path. We headed west to the next town of Rockville where we turned onto Bridge Road and then made a right onto Grafton Road which was unpaved. This was a mildly bumpy but very scenic road taking us to Rt 59 and crossing briefly into Arizona before picking up Cane Bed Road through the bluffs on another 8 mile dirt road crossing back to Utah where we picked up Coral Pink Sand Dunes Road.

Off The Main Road Tumble Weed Blowing Over The Hood

Our destination was the very rugged Elephant Butte Road near here but in checking in with the State Park Ranger, he advised is the sand was just too dry for our type of tires. With this news we drove up the road to an overlook and an area where one can see and walk on Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. (Think several miles pretty sand but no beach). With the weather starting to turn and getting hungry we headed back to Zion from the east. This is a road one should not miss as it passes some incredible scenery and goes through an unusual tunnel. We opted to head straight for lunch as overcast skies made poor lighting for pictures promising to come back on Monday for a canyon over look hike and photos.

Cane Bed School In AZ just South Of Utah Border On The Way To Coral Pink Sands Dune Park

Super Smooth Coral Colored Sand

The rest of our day was dictated by the rain so we decided to visit the Zion Canyon Giant Screen Movie Theatre at the park entrance and saw a wonderful movie called Cowboy's "Ride Around the World". It was about the 1500 year old history of the cowboy. We found the movie well made in typical IMAX fashion and taught us how the cowboy originated in Morocco, moved to Spain and then to the western hemisphere by the Spaniards up to the U.S. and Canada via Texas. After the movie the management said that if we held onto our ticket stubbs we can see the movie “Fool’s Gold” at 7PM for $5 each on the giant screen. He said it was the largest screen in Utah. We took advantage of this because of lack of entertainment in town during the shoulder season as well as the rain keeping us indoors.

Emerald Pools : First You Hike Under the Falls to Lower Pool, Then Snake Up To Top Of Falls To Middle Pool (picture from Grotto Trail)

On our last day in Zion we checked out of the hotel with the staff holding our luggage. We immediately went into the park and took the shuttle to the lodge so we can hike the Emerald Pools trail. This trail is offers an easy uphill .6 mile path to a waterfall that you walk behind. Another steeper half a mile will lead you to the base of a tall waterfall where the pool there looked a little more olive color than emerald. From there you can either double back or take the fork off to the Grotto Trail and which leads you to the Grotto Trail bus stop. What is nice about this hike is that you are not doing a round trip in the same way you came.

Upper Emerald Falls in Stitched Picture View On Trail Back Noticing The Small Things In Zion Park

After enjoying this hike we took the bus back to our car and drove through the tunnel to the other end of the park taking pictures along the way. On the way back we hiked what is called Canyon Overlook Trail. This trail is rated “moderate” by the park service and says it is only 1 mile roundtrip. For some reason this path seemed longer. There were sections where you need climb steps and there are drop offs so hold small children by the hand. The end of this trail has a fence protecting people from dropping a thousand feet down. The view is worth the climb so if you have the time put it on your list. The nice there about this hike is that you can drive here instead of taking the shuttle. After this last hike we went through the tunnel and down the switch backs to the valley floor. If the lighting is good I would say park near the bridge and walk onto it to take a picture of the river below you and the mountains and valley above. From here it was lunch in town then picking up our luggage and off to Las Vegas with fond memories of this special park.

A Porthole In The Tunnel Going East To West Zion's Beautiful Sandstone Mountains Are The Largest Of Its Type

Scenes From Zion From The Road

If You Go:

Complete information on Zion Park can be found at www.nps.gov/zion

Information on Springdale need for your trip is at www.zionpark.com

Lodging: We picked the Pioneer Lodge after checking out rates and amenities. We also liked the fast and very friendly service their people gave us when we made the inquirey for our stay. This is the oldest hotel in Springdale but the rooms were modern, clean and looked like they were redone recently. Each room included a small fridge and microwave. We had the Jacuzzi suite that included a large tub to soak in after a day of hiking, king bed, bath rope and slippers. Some stays include breakfast or a discount to breakfast. I liked the fact that internet was included as well. For complete information go to www.pioneerlodge.com

Dinning: Spotted Dog Café: Don’t let the “Café” in their name fool you as this is fine dining with very

good food and service in a pleasant surroundings. The wine list here goes from reasonable to

expensive so there is plenty for anyone to pick. Reservations will be needed at 435 772-3244

Oscar’s Café and Deli: This is a very casual place with the same menu for lunch and dinner.

In fact we had one late night dinner here and were impressed enough to come back for lunch the

next day. I heard rumblings about prices being a little high but some of the portions a huge.

Leave room for there brownie or carrot cake deserts meant for sharing. Call 435 772-3232

Sol Food’s at the park entrance was good for a fast lunch. We only had the salad bar and

found the price and food good.

Art Or Nature (Click The Pictures Above for Full Size)

Stitched Photo of Zion Looking From Dirt Road From West

(This write up and pictures are property of Tab Hauser and is written without any bias. The opinions here are written as I see it and I am happy to share these for private usage) Please email me at tabh@hascorelays.com if you have any questions.