Siam Experience Part 2: Seam Reap, Cambodia 12/25 - 12/28/07

Text and Photos by Tab Hauser

www.tabhauser.com e: tabh@hascorelays.com

 

[The below trip was done in between our visit to Bangkok and Phuket due to ease of travel in that part of South East Asia.  For my travel story on Bangkok and Phuket, go www.tabhauser.com and click Siam Experience Part 1]

 

 

The area around Seam Reap, Cambodia is an amazing place to visit.  At the request of my daughter who is an architect student, we went to Seam Reap as a side trip squeezed between Bangkok and Phuket Island, Thailand.  She briefly had gone over the structures of Angkor Wat in class and thought our family would find this an interesting  place to see.  Seam Reap boasts the ancient temple complexes of Angkor Wat and Angkor Throm, as well as a number of other cultural/historic locations.  Seam Reap is already under pressure from a burgeoning number of tourists, and we wanted to see it before it is completely “loved to death” by tourism.

 

We flew to Seam Reap from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport in a one hour direct flight . We allowed extra time to get to Suvarnabhumi airport and got there early, and actually liked being at this world class airport. Suvarnabhumi is relatively new and very modern looking; the design invites you to stroll and shop, and have a drink and snack. Customs in Cambodia could not have been any friendlier or faster. When we arrived, there was a desk of ten Customs agents poised to process our ‘on the spot’ visas. After handing one of the agents the application,  photo and the US $20 application fee, we observed the passport as it was efficiently passed from agent to agent until it was approved and returned to us in less than 10 minutes.  We continued to be surprised and pleased by the great service in Cambodia; our driver from the Le Meridian hotel met us and loaded our bags in the van while giving   us some basic information in well spoken English. He obliged us by stopping for a few moments allowing me to photograph Angkor Wat lit up.  At the hotel three people helped us check in and confirmed our guide and driver for the next morning. The reception agent walked us to our room  where our bags were already waiting for us.  The service was so on target that we reckoned that they were going to unpack for us. We decided to sign up for the hotel “Cultural Dance” buffet dinner for $30 each. This suited our requirements that evening, as we were a little fatigued from the day. Usually we avoid hotel buffets, but in this case we were glad we stayed because the food selections at the Le Meridian dinner buffet were very good and tasty, and the dancing was nice.

 

Angkor Wat at Night.  (this does not happen often)

 

On our first day in Seam Reap we enjoyed a comprehensive hotel buffet breakfast. Nice as it was , our thoughts turned back to the events  of  exactly two years earlier to the hour. Our first day in Seam Reap was the anniversary of the tsunami which wiped out over 250,000 people primarily in southeast Asia.  It affected much of Phuket Island, and killed 20% of the people on Phi-Phi Island where we would be visiting in just a few days.

  

 

   

   A Cambodian Dancer With Eyes of  A Princess

 

Through Le Meridian in Seam Reap we hired for the day a van and driver for $50 as well as a guide for another $20.  Our guide Utdom Noun explained that our day was going to start at Angkor Throm and visit various temples in that region finishing our morning off at the sight of a 1000 year old Ta Phrom. (Ta Phrom was used in the movie Tomb Raider and one of the Indiana Jones films)

 

  

   Two Faces at Angkor Throm                                                                         Angkor Throm East Gate

 

After driving 10 minutes we were let out to walk through the east gate of Angkor Throm.  I am glad we did this verse driving through as many people do.  We were able to enjoy our walk on statue laden bridge-like road leading up to the East Gate tower.  We found the gate itself very imposing with its narrow entrance and large carved face high atop.  It was a good introduction as to what was to come.

 

                                                                                                                                                                     Bas Relief

 

                                                                                                                  Some of the Towers Of Angkor Throm

 

 

 

 

After visiting this complex, we returned to the van and were brought to   Bayon Temple where we walked around, up and inside for about an hour. Bayon has many large faces carved from stone on several towers that make this place quite magical. In addition to the towers, there are two bas-reliefs along the walls depicting the history, culture and mythology of the people at the time. We thoroughly enjoyed walking in and out of the different dark rooms, and in general these 700 to 800 year old ruins were in good condition. From here our van brought us to Baphoun where were awed by the size this three tiered pyramid. Unfortunately we could not climb on this Indian inspired temple because of the ongoing restorations.  Our guide explained preservation of the site started over forty years ago. It stopped during the terrible Khmer Rouge tragic times, and recommenced in 1995, with several more years required to finish the restorations and preservations.

 

                                                                                                                                Phimeanakas

We then strolled through a semi-wooded area to a place called Phimeanakas. This 10th century Hindu temple had a stocky look, measuring 115 feet by 92 feet and having steep steps climbing to a height of 130 feet. We carefully climbed the steps to admire the view from the top, as well as to see various large stones which had collapsed with only window frames showing. From here we moved on to Terrace of the Elephant and Terrace of the Leper King. After seeing the field known as The 12 towers of Prasat Suor Prat from the top of the terrace we walked through the narrow but open topped passage way with carvings from beginning to end. This opened up to a field. At the field we saw a tall and very long wall which  was used as a viewing stand carved with a parade of life-size elephants.

 

  

Wondering Around the Back Side of Ta Phrom                                        800 Year Old Building Overtaken By Tree

 

Trees Growing Over Walls and Over Buildings

 

From this area we hopped back into the cool van for a short ride to what is called Ta Phrom. Ta Phrom was built between the 12th and 13th centuries and served as a monastery and university. Records indicate that over 10,000 people lived within its walls which measured over 3000 feet long by nearly 2000 feet wide. It was also believed to have been abandoned around the 15th century, and was reclaimed by the jungle. After its more modern rediscovery by the French, much of the grounds were cleared of shrubs, bushes and trees. Many of the imposing trees were left intact, so that visitors could observe for themselves the reclamation of the temple complex by the jungle.  Here we saw the thick roots of tall trees growing around the walls of the place, as well as the walls of the different buildings. There is no other place on the face of the Earth like this place. Walking around here felt like I was truly in an ancient ghost town. While strolling about my daughter suddenly suggested that we break right and head away from the flat path where the tour groups were going. This was a great idea, because by doing this we were able to hike around a large section with very few people around us. We were awed climbing about collapsed structures, investigating forgotten rooms and admiring all this scenery with tourists breaking the silence of these structures redolent as they were with history. It looked eerie in the shadows. At one point we came across an entire tree growing over a room in a sunken house. After thoroughly exploring the 800 year old ruins of Ta Phrom, we caught up with the Asian tour groups taking pictures in front of Ta Phrom’s two most popular trees. One tree was growing over and around one of the buildings, and another was growing over a wall. After meeting up with this group I realized that the earlier in the day people come to see this place, the better. Future visitors, take heed !  I anticipate that in the future, the authorities will be restricting access to designated paths as Seam Reap gets more and more popular. At 12PM, we were sweaty, tired and hungry and we were returned to our hotel for a two hour break avoiding the hottest part of the day outdoors.

 

Outside the Main Gate Looking Over Moat

 

Inside Angkor Wat Looking At Inside Wall

 

After some down time and a nice lunch at the hotel we were picked up 2PM and driven 5 minutes to the famous Angkor Wat. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has a different look than the structures of Angkor Throm we saw in the morning. This temple was built in 12th century in what is considered so classic of Khmer architecture that its image is on the Cambodian flag.   It stretches over 3000 feet long by 2500 feet wide.  While it was used a temple to serve 3 different religions it is clear that Angkor Wat was also a super fortress for its time with its wide moat and outer and inner walls.  This place has 5 spires in its center along with long corridors on the sides and many rooms. There are ponds between the outer wall and the center as well as two pools in the middle of the structure.  To see Angkor Wat you must access it from the walk way that splits the moat.  Once through the entrance of the outer buildings you walk down a path to get to the spires with stone buildings on each side.  We saw the one on the left with its restored stones and pillars that Utdom called the library.  

 

Click Thumbnail To See Full Picture

 

                               

By 2nd Wall                   First Gallery                 Relief                 Pool in Middle        Room in Center     In Center

                                       

    Back of Angkor Wat            Carvings                    Self Portrait in Mirror

  

Click Thumbnail To See Full Picture

 

One thing the guide pointed out was the fact that while Angkor Thom was built 60 years early and larger, Angkor Wat was built for quality with many or its rooms still in good condition. He said the foundation was put on sand and then stone. He pointed out how the large stones were notched into each other instead on being built on one on top of the other.  We saw the pond where the movie Tomb Raider  was filmed and took some photos of the reflection of the temple before walking into the inner area.  The inner area had many rooms with a large open space to walk around and see all the high spires up close.  It was only a few months ago that the authorities stopped people from climbing the steep steps to gain access to the base of the spires and all the rooms in that area.   After taking 2 hours of being inside and exploring Angkor Wat we walked out past the moat and waited about 25 minutes for the sun to set hoping for good pictures of an orange glow on the buildings.  Unfortunately a cloudy sky made the temple look dull but it was the visiting of several monks in their saffron colored tunics that brightened the place up.
        

Monks At Angkor Wat At Dusk

 

At 5:30 we returned to the hotel where we said good bye to Utdom and our driver for the night. Here we rested up for about 1 ½ hours and then headed via tuck–tuck to the Sugar Palm restaurant in Seam Reap. (Our tuck-tuck was no more than a small motorcycle pulling a carriage that the four of us sat in with two of us facing the other two).  The Sugar Palm was recommended by Chef Nicolas Rouleau at Le Meridian as a nice place to go. The 10 minute pleasant ride cost us $3. The driver refused our money but said he would he would be back to pick us up around 9PM thereby guaranteeing him a return fare. After walking in to Sugar Palm my son was immediately taken back by the pleasant table settings. We also liked the menu items and the fact that most main courses were about $5 or almost half the price of the hotel dinner. After dinner our tuck-tuck was waiting for us. We asked the driver the cost for a tour around town. He said the total would be $6 for the night whereby I countered, offered him $7 to take his time. He “tuck-tucked” us around the different streets and along the river back to the hotel. We found the ride very pleasant aside from the sooty coal smell in the air. The driver could not have been any nicer, and after giving him $8 for the evening he gave us his number to call him for the following night.

 

 

Banteay Srey

Most Doorways Had Detailed Engravings                                                The Inner Door Way To Banteay Srey

 

On our second day we headed out twenty five miles to a temple called Banteay Srey. This was a place that had a completely different style and color than the other temples we had visited the day before. It was built in the 10th century of red sandstone. Our guide told us that while the place is smaller than other area temples but built a lot stronger with an emphasis on quality rather than size. This perhaps explained why most buildings were still intact. The outer wall dimensions are 360 feet long by 311 feet. The inner wall is 137 by 124 so getting around is quick. What we noticed here were smaller buildings and lots of engravings in the stone above the doors. Many of the engravings were of women which could explain why one of the translations to this place is called the Citadel of Women.

 

Click Thumbnails For Viewing  Banteay Srey

                                                

   Details In Ever Corner      Red Sand Stone Structures   Lady Over Door Post      Engraved Lion On Corner

 

One of the nice things about going to Banteay Srey was the ride there. On the way we passed many traditional homes on stilts as well as small road side villages. One village seemed to specialize in making straw baskets, while the other made road side palm sugar. After the temple visit we stopped for 10 minutes at the Land Mine Museum. Here we saw poster boards with the history of the Pol-Pot regime as well as the mines that were sewn during that terrible time. We saw many diffused land mines of different sizes labeled with the countries where they were produced. The museum is not gory but informative, and very definitely worth the visit.  Utdom told us that there are still as many as 20 people killed in Cambodia each day by mines due to people wandering about or starting new farm land.

 

Scenes From The Road by Seam Reap: 

               Palm Sugar Girls                                   Gas Station                                                                      Local Transportation

 

From here we visited a home along the road that made palm sugar.  This is basically reduced sugar cane that is hardened into candy similar in looks and texture to maple candy. They also made a spread that looked like peanut butter but made of sugar cane.  The family “factory” consisted of a homemade earthen fireplace in front of the house with a large wok set over to boil up and reduce the mixture.   Running the family business was young girl of about 12 years old and her younger sisters.  I can only imagine that the parents were out working in the fields to help them get by in this house with out running water or electricity.

 

From here we visited a home along the road in which palm sugar was made This is basically reduced sugar cane that is hardened into candy, similar in looks and texture to maple candy. They also made a spread that looked like peanut butter but which was made of sugar cane. The family “factory” consisted of a homemade earthen fireplace in front of the house with a large wok set over to boil up and reduce the mixture. Running the family business was young girl of about 12 years old and her younger sisters. I can only imagine that the parents were out working in the fields to help them get by in this house with out running water or electricity.

After buying some palm sugar candy we drove 20 minutes to a “weaving” village. Here we saw road side places selling different items woven out of the leaves. We purchased a woven plate for a few dollars as well as a hacky sack- like kicking toy the kids wanted. On a stand we saw rows of bottles with a yellow liquid in them. For what I thought was some sort of home made local liquor turned out to be gasoline. With no full service gas stations with in many miles, the locals tend to use old bottles to sell gas. The store across the way was a little more modern with gas being “hand pumped” the old fashion way out of large tar cans. Our last stop before our lunch break was to buy a few oil paintings. After bargaining the kids purchased two 3 foot by 5 foot oil paintings. One had a scene of Angkor Wat while the other was that of a surreal Angkor Throm in the jungle. We also bought a painting of the floating fishing village we were about to visit.

 

 

   Main Street Chong Kneas                                                                                     Two Ladies Selling Food


Our afternoon trip was going to take us to Tonle Sap or Cambodia’s largest lake. After driving south thirty minutes we arrived on a long raised dirt road that passed many primitive homes built up on stilts to avoid getting swamped during the height of rainy season. The road continued until we got to boats that took tourists out the Chong Kneas which is the closest floating village to Seam Reap. Here several hundred people live on boats or floating homes held together by wood, bamboo and large empty metal barrels. They live literally 2 feet over the water and travel south as the lake dries up. Our slow boat consisted of the “captain” steering with an old automobile wheel as well as his 10 year old first mate. The mate’s job was to act as a “bow thruster” and make sure the front when pulling out or into a dock was free and clear of other boats. We learned that some children go to school for a few hours in the morning and then go to work if possible to help the family.   

 

    Produce Ladies Servicing House Boats                                                    House Boat on Bamboo


After boarding our boat we headed south. On our left side we saw the road literally vanish into the lake. At the end of the lake was a floating school complete with fenced in floating playground. After going down the main channel we came across various house boats heading in both directions. . These were either paddled or if they can afford it, had a small motor on them. I was a bit humbled when I saw  two ladies covered head to toe paddling in the broiling heat in a heavy covered wooden boat with what looked like all their possessions. One lady was on the bow while the other one was on the stern moving the boat along slowly back to the village at 1 to 2 mph.  A few minutes later we passed a different style  house boat with with a  young couple, complete with weather worn faces and clothes motoring along at 5 mph. They to seemed to have everything they owned strapped on the roof or tied down in their tunnel like craft.

 

Ladies Paddling To Chong Kneas From Road On Old Heavy Wooden Boat

 

Before we reached the village we would have people in small boats with motors pull up to us trying to sell soda and bananas. In one instance with out us realizing it we were boarded by what seemed to be a 5 year old girl wearing a hat down to her nose holding a basket of bananas and cokes. The kids got startled when she just appeared next to them after sneaking on from the stern of the boat. When we declined to buy anything, her father pulled up next to us in an old narrow boat barely a foot off the water and  the little girl simply walked off while underway.  Neither our driver nor the father gave the whole incidence a second thought, leaving us dumbfounded over the ease with which this little girl got on and off with  the boat movement and waves. (I told the kids they would have made lousy pirates getting boarded without knowing it).

 

                                   

             Floating Schools                                  Getting Boarded                           Very Simple Living      Collecting Wood

 

                                                                         

Young Couple Getting By               Boy In Washtub         Mother & Sleeping Baby           Mother & Boy With Python

 

When we entered the main channel we passed both house boats and floating homes. I estimate that there must have been at least a hundred lining both shores.  Here we saw stores, another school, as well as people doing something that pertained to the fishing industry.  After passing the village the captain pulled out to an area where you see nothing but water on one side and village on the other. This seems to be where the guides give a little insight to the place. It is also where the little kids know where to try and beg.  One young boy sitting in nothing but washtub paddled up to us looking for handouts.  Another boat paddled up with a mother and a 3 year old girl holding a 5 foot python around her little body charging for pictures. Our guide told us not to give anyone any money as it just encouraged more beggars to do the same. It was sad to see parents exploiting their small children for the sole purpose of begging. As much as you want to help out by passing a dollar on we followed our guides advice. He said if you want to help these children or the children in the streets selling post cards at the temples tell your friends to bring notebooks and lots of pencils to give out instead of money.

 

Our captain next headed back to the village to what seemed to be to a museum / store / restaurant complete with alligators, viewing area, fish tanks and charts. There was even a place where you can catch your own fish from a holding tank and have it cooked on the spot. From the viewing area you can see “Main Street” and the different floating homes and house boats.  On the way back we motored by ladies separating small fish on a floating house as well as others going about their everyday lives..  People in this village seem to have a tough but simple living away from all the comforts we take for granted. For one thing they seem to be wet a lot going about on small craft no more than a 1 or so off the water.  We also did not see any generators on the house boats meaning no electricity.  For cooking fuel we saw a few boats laden with sticks collected to sell to other boaters. We also saw propane tanks as well. 

 

Looking up to the Temple at Phnom Bakheng                                                    On Top Waiting for Sunset

 

Steep Steps to the Top                                                                             A Friendly Monk Sharing a Sunset

 

To conclude our two day tour of Seam Reap we opted to view the sunset from Phnom Bakheng.  This place was built around the 9th century and has become very popular for watching the sunset to the west as well as seeing the face of Angkor Wat change colors just under a mile to the east.   To get to this ancient Hindu temple you hike up a hill on a dirt road for about 25 minutes to the top.  From here you climb steep steps to get on the pyramid.  Another way to get to the top is to take a 20 minute elephant ride. If you go this way make sure you make reservations way in advance with your hotel.  We were shut out on the sunset ride.  Once on the top you get to share the end of another fine day with over a 1500 of your new best friends from all over the world. While on top I altered my positions between taking pictures of Angkor Wat and that of the slowly sinking sun. 

    

    Sunset to the West Above and Looking East 1 mile to Angkor Wat Below

 

 

                                        

 Cool Sunset           Elephant Station         Multinational Sunset                  Thumb - Set

 

For our last night we called our “limo” driver and had him take us to Abacas Garden Restaurant at Chef Rouleau recommendation. Here we had a good meal of Australian Steak and local Lobster along with a smooth beer from Laos. After dinner our driver took us over to the Seam Reap night market where we purchased a few trinkets and headed back to the Le Meridian.   

Our Limo and Driver For Two Nights                                                                Fine Dining

 

On our last morning on the way to the airport we had the hotel driver take us to Angkor Wat first.  My daughter wanted to spend our last half hour in Cambodia admiring the architecture of this great place.  This gave us enough time to stroll nearly all the way down to the start of the inner wall and reflect on this great and old place.  From here it was 5 minutes to the airport to catch our 9:50AM flight to Bangkok continuing on to tropical Phuket  Island.

 

 

Quiet Morning At Angkor Wat

 

Our flights from Seam Reap to Phuket were on time with a sandwich served on each of the one hour flights.  It is a amazing how in the U.S. we have all these rigid rules about boarding by rows and standing in lines that do not seem to do speed things up. Here as in much of Asia when the flight is announced, people just stand in line no matter where they are seated, get on, store there stuff and sit down. This has always been a faster way than waiting for the airport gate agents to ask 3 times if anyone is still around to board row 15 to 30. We found both our flights left the gate 5 minutes early and the flight attendants could not be any nicer. I think rather than outsource airline phone reservation agents to Asia, we should in-source these very friendly who help in the skies where it counts.

 

If You Go.....

 

HOTEL:  Le Meridian Hotel   www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien   (type in Seam Reap)

 

GUIDE:  Utdom Noun       e: utdom.noun@yahoo. COM (Hotels have a large pool of guides but can be short on transportation to get around.

                                           Book a car or van as much in advance as possible to so you do get driven around in a sweltering tuck-tuck all day.)

 Places to Eat:              

                Sugar Palm 63964848

               Abacus Cafe   012644286 

                       

Getting Around:

              From the airport you can usually get a taxi for $5.00. If you are not comfortable with this being it is your first time

              in Seam Reap you can arrange transport with your hotel.    The best way to town and dinner is with a tuck-tuck. Negotiate 

              price first before you get in. Also, keep in mind they usually charge $1 more if you stay at a 5 star hotel because they

              know you can afford it.

 

 

Minor Warnings:

Food:

During our trip in S.E. Asia we had been very careful not to eat uncooked produce as well as using ice from anything but the hotels for most of the trip. We made friends with Chef Nicolas Rouleau at Le Meridian because we really liked what he was producing out of the kitchen. This French chef as we say "got it". His food put out excellent food as well as breads that seemed to be from a fine bakery. We felt what better way to learn about the food in Seam Reap than asking a good chef.  With this in mind I talked to owners of Sugar Palm about the ice and uncooked vegetables as the kids and Maureen were craving a salad and a fruit shake.  The owner, Kethana Dunnet, informed met that they use only purified water in their ice and use the same water to wash their produce. She pleasantly pointed out that both she and her husband Bruce were also foreigners and eat the same food as their foreign guests. She continued by saying they only use healthy oil to stir fry there food which is why the place is popular with tourists.  With that said the kid’s ordered dragon fruit shakes and a rare beef salad with a Khmer dressing. Maureen had vodka with crushed oranges, strawberries and lime along with a salad. I ordered a real Cuban  rum on the rocks with lime to go with chicken basil stir fry.  Everyone was more than pleased with what they got and we are happy recommend the Sugar Palm to anyone in the area.  We were extra careful with eating due to only having 2 weeks here. Some people dive into food stalls immediately. While these may be fine and cheap, the consequences of spending a day in your room sick on limited time makes it not worth it.

 

Malaria:

Cambodia is known to have malaria and our guide said  many Cambodians take medicine to prevent it.  What we learned is that in Seam Reap, malaria is not a known to be a a problem. We were advised that covering up and using bug spray in the evenings was the way to go. If you are going into the jungles and staying for a long period of time you should consult your doctor and the State department to see if malaria medicine is for you.