Niagara Falls – A Detailed 48 Hour Family Weekend   6/26 to 2/28

by Tab Hauser

Looking to get away from the rituals of suburban family life I planned a 48 hour getaway to Niagara Falls over the Memorial Day Weekend in 2003.  This did not materialize as  almost every weekend in the spring either rained or was cold or both.  I will look back at spring of 2003 and fondly remember it as the Saturdays and sometimes Sundays of standing around wet or cold and wet soccer fields routing the Port Washington team on.  With Memorial Day Weekend scheduled to be raining and cold  in Niagara Falls we called Jet Blue and were please to find out for only a $25 we were allowed to cancel for and rescheduled us to depart June 27 at 9:30 AM and return Sunday from at 11AM on Sunday. The airfare with the cancellation was now $135 round trip NY’s JFK to Buffalo. 

(I guess it is no coincidence Jet Blue flights are full and profitable while United and U.S. with fly or lose out are running half empty and at a loss)

Anyway getting back to the weekend away…

The idea here was to be a family again. Our 15 year old daughter would get a break from “I.M.ing” on the computer or hanging out on main street for the weekend.  Also, our 12 year old son would get a break from his routines as well. As for adults, we figured one weekend without playing taxi driver to both kids would be OK, not to mention we would actually be would all be hanging out together.

I picked Niagara Falls (staying on the Canadian side) as a family trip for a few reasons. One is that it was cheap and nearby  to fly to.  Many people drive the 8 – 9 hours.  Doing that would have stressed us as Maureen hates being in cars not to mention the kids getting board even after watching movies on the computer DVD. This also would have meant  a stop in Corning for the night.  Jet Blue as mentioned was $110 RT and was 58 minutes.  The other reason to go to Niagara Falls as silly as it may sound is that we have had the privilege and luck the take the kids to many out of the way places or nice quiet resorts  in the Caribbean or Latin America. (see www.tanealarm.com/tab)   They really have not experienced the “touristy” main stream travel places in the world with Disney being the exception.   Niagara Falls to me blended the elements of nature and the brute force and beauty of the falls along with the cheesiness and fun of Clifton Street on the Canadian side.  It had its cotton candy stands,  haunted houses, game rooms, 3D and 4D rides to name a few and chain restaurants.

We left the house 7:30AM  and took off on time at 9:30 arriving 10:40 into Buffalo. The rental car from Alamo directly behind baggage where my son had us upgrade for $8 to a very large Concorde. We off at 11PM arriving on Goat Island between the American Falls and Horseshoe Falls at 11:45 with the kids napping the entire way. I would call this “Door to Falls” in a little over 4 hours and no one complaining about the long ride. 

I picked Goat Island verse parking at the tower on the American mainland side because of its location, tourist attractions, ease of parking and the fact you  see the best views of the American side and of Canadian side from here.  Arriving at 11:45 we were not ready to go to lunch so decided to do the Cave of the Winds attraction.  Here for $8 adult or $6 for my son you get to use and keep a yellow Cave of the Winds poncho that goes to your knees as well as a good set of Cave of the Winds water sandals that we re-used on the Whirlpool Jet boat ride the next day.  Here you board and elevator that takes you near the base of the falls. They collect about 40 people at a time and meet on a wooden platform near the tube that comes from the elevator and explain what we are about to see and do.  They also tell us that the finale is the Hurricane Deck where you are guaranteed to get the most soaked but also get the closest to feel and here the power of the falls. There is a bypass for those less adventurous here.   The Cave of the Wind tour  no longer has a cave. That collapsed years ago. Now they have you stroll on cat walks with viewing areas of different sections and views of the falls and the run off around it. The walk goes from misty, to drizzle to out right rain, to full thunderstorm on Hurricane Deck. On the Hurricane Deck you endure winds up to fast winds a good simulation being caught in a perpetual thunderstorm.  Our kids were front and center on this one for a while. Having a camera bag under my flimsy poncho only allowed me a minute or so to feel this deck before I had to back down.  It is pretty exciting not to get caught up in the sounds of the water crashing in front and to the side of you.  After we walked down from the Hurricane Deck you eventually get to a point where you can tear off the poncho (or remove it for some later reuse and start to dry off.  Maureen & I were dry enough to not need to change. The kids needed to get extra clothes out of the car and change. 

With our first of 3 targeted tourist attractions done it was time for lunch. The food looked horrible at the snack bar by the Cave of the Winds so we walked over to the restaurant that the state leased out over looking Horseshoe falls.  Here we found a comfortable place to eat with a reasonably price  menu (considering the location) and a good view. Being near Buffalo we had to try to wings but found them bland even though we ordered them spicy. The salads and sweet potato fries were good. The buffalo chicken and BBQ pizza was a little funky. Our son ordered the fried banana cheese cake which took a while to bring out but was tasty. All and all it was a good place, though the service was slow. (it was also better than leaving the island and finding a place after paying for parking. (You can take a tram to the mainland if you want to but I would see no reason to do this unless you did not have identification to head over the Canadian side)  Next, to get a better view of the American Falls we walked past the Cave of the Winds entrance area and went to Luna Island.  This is a small island that looks like from the main land it is about to go over the falls. In fact the island was closed from 1954 to 1955 because a large piece of it was about to take the plunge. The park service removed the over hang and drilled supports into the rock while removed places where water could further do damage to it.  To get to Luna Island you cross a small foot bridge about 20 feet across and see the water rushing at 30mph underneath you before going over. After crossing the bridge you walk about 100 feet across to the other side for a view of the American Falls to the right.  After doing this, we got back in the car and drove 2 minutes up to the road the 3 Sisters Islands.  There is 20 minute free parking lot across from the first bridge or if you paid for parking you can go to the back lot and park there and walk 5 minutes to the first bridge.  It is also a stop on the tram.  I remember this place in 1987 as peaceful in a park like setting. Here you cross 3 bridges to get to 3 small islands that are in an original park like setting. After the first bridge the kids looked to the left where there were able to touch the water safely because it was not running hard or deep.  (watch all small kids on these islands) Touching the water anywhere in the area is not a good idea and should not be encouraged.   The third island which I think is the prettiest. Here you walk over smooth rocks that were once rapids to the river. The power authority takes 50% of the water in the day and as much as 75% at night so the river is very much controlled and islands like these have become very forest like.  On the third island there was a NY State Ranger who warns people about climbing rocks on the water edge.  He told me that during the tourist season they get between 1 – 2 people that fall in or jump in every week in the area.  Almost all of them are  swept over which is why he is on alert when the little island gets a crowded with people.  This place has nice river  and rapid views only a few hundred yards from where Horseshoe takes the big the plunge.

After spending a little time here enjoying the place and watching the kids climb around we headed to our hotel which was on the Canadian side.  From here we would not be on the U.S. side until Sunday morning when we return.  Crossing Rainbow Bridge took a few minutes. On the U.S. side the Department of Immigration were looking at cars and pulling anyone they did not like the looks of. Getting over to the Canadian side was easy. The Customs agent asked if we were carrying any liquor or weapons, did not want to see the passports I offered to show him and told us to have a nice day. We then made our way to the Sheraton Fallsview hotel. There are two Sheraton’s.  The one we stayed at was by Horseshoe Falls and is where the new hotels and new casino was being built.

The Sheraton Fallsview is on Fallsview Blvd or what can be called new hotel row on the bluff.  Between being lucky, some good salesmanship on my part, a nice reservation manager, and the Sheraton royally screwing up our reservations we were put on the new section on the 27^th floor with floor to ceiling windows and use of the Sheraton Lounge for 5 PM snacks, soft drinks and free internet use.  We checked in and were wowed by the view of both falls and the rainbow we saw from our adjacent rooms.  Next we went down for a nosh on the 22^nd floor at the club but were disappointed to find  what I call the  “Costco” assortment of fried things. The free soft drinks were OK. I did try a glass of Canadian Cabernet Sauvignon which I would consider barely passable. (the Canadian’s should stay with Ice Wine that I tried the next day). After about 1 ½ hours of down time where my wife fell asleep, my daughter started to sketch the magnificent view, my son watched TV and I rested we headed towards the tourist area for dinner and the 10PM fireworks show.  There are plenty of places to eat. None that I can think of that would make me travel to this place to eat.   The hotel buffet while price reasonable (my son would have eaten free) had a seafood theme with food that looked like it could have been cooked or present better.   I picked the Steak and Keg to have dinner because I ate at other ones in Toronto and found the food consistent for the price.  We walked 20 minutes up Fallsview Blvd, made a right on Ferry and saw it in the Marriott Courtyard hotel.  The food was good and the service very nice.  From here we walked past the touristy center of Niagara Falls, Clifton Hill, for a quick stop for a caramel coated apple, some fudge and a walk down hill for a spot to view the fireworks. (What is it about places like Niagara Falls or the tourist centers like Juneau Alaska, Atlantic City, Virginia Beach, etc, that people have the need to buy fudge? I have never heard anyone at home in my neighborhood say, hey Tab, I am really in the mood for fresh fudge, I wish someone around here would sell some.    Perhaps when Seinfeld comes back on TV he can bring this topic up)

At 9:50 we found a spot on the wall opposite the American Falls for the fireworks.  At 10PM the fireworks started.  This was a nice display lasting about 10 minutes. The falls were also up. They are illuminated for 9PM- 12PM  every night in season.

After the show we made our way back to the hotel via River Road and up the inclinator to the bluffs in the hotels area.  The inclinator stops running at 11PM and costs a CDN$1 either up or down.  It saves a lot of time and energy and time to use this thing because the   hotels are up on a the bluff a couple of hundred feet higher. If the inclinator is closed you have to back track and hike up Murray Street.

All in all this we had a nice day where we finally crashed out around 11:30.

Saturday, Day 2:

Today on the venue were two things. The rest would be gravy as they say. The first thing to do was to go on the Maid of the Mist after breakfast and the second would be the Whirlpool Jet Boat and Lunch at Niagara on the Lake 25 minutes north.

This morning the kids were not interested lounge continental breakfast so we headed downstairs to the buffet.  Again, the food was a basic as it gets and if it was not for saving time we would have headed elsewhere to eat.  From the hotel we drove and got lucky with a metered parking spot on Clifton and walked down the hill to the Maid of the Mist ticket booth.  Here they give you a thin blue rain poncho and off you board for the 15 minute cruise past the American Falls and then into the rage of  Horseshoe Falls. The boat gets a couple of hundred feet from the falls and all you see is water and spray from the front, left and right. After the boat holds its place for a long two minutes to get the full effect it cruises back.  Here you can get as wet or as almost damp as you would like. Being on the bow we chose the wet. The ponchos kept us pretty dry here.  Maid of the Mist is one of the oldest tourist attractions in the U.S. and probably Canada.  I can see why after over 100 years of being around, this trip is not getting old, just a lot of fun.  Cruises leave every 15 or 20 minutes.

Next, we called up Whirlpool Jet boats to change our 4PM tour to 1PM.  It was 11:30 and after a cotton candy stop for Melissa on Clifton we headed off to Niagara-on- the-Lake   with stops for view the Whirlpool from 200 feet up, the road side Floral Clock and then buying excellent fresh picked cherries at a farm stand.  After signing in at Whirlpool Jet Boats   we were told to change into clothes that you do not mind getting wet. Also we were told leave anything you did not want damaged by water in the car. (this meant my camera gear except for a little throw away I bought and put in a zip lock for this occasion)  After being handed a heavy poncho, the option for rubber booties which Melissa took, we boarded a large jet boat producing 1500 HP holding 9  rows of people sitting 6 across.  At first the boat goes 5mph through a no wake zone and then speeds up to a smooth 60 mph before slowing for the first set of rapids.  This is a smooth ride so sea sickness is not an issue. It only gets rough for a short period when they go down the rapids.  On board we are told of  the history of the river and the people and how this modern boat works.  We are also initiated by a 360 degree jet boat spin that everyone young and old thought was fun. The boat literally stops and turns on a dime.  Just after the U.S. and Canadian power plants the captain goes up the rapids and then plunges slowly down them creating a “small” wall of water on the first few rows of people and the rest of the passengers merely just getting wet from the after splash.  After we are initiated and even the nervous people realized we are going to live we headed up river to another set of rapids where the boat turned around went down them for about  75 yards. This time the entire boat was totally swamped with an even larger wall of water.  The first 3 rows are hit with small waves going over the windshield constantly in any rapids.  During this time the girl narrating has us urge on the captain to go faster.  Our next destination was the whirlpool.  We saw this from the road at 200 feet up and it looked like fast water. In fact my daughter commented that she would like to kayak down them.  When we made it into the whirlpool rapids what we saw was 30 mph water travel down in several foot high waves.  The force of the wave had the water pushed down thrusting the water very deep.  It also had a spot where it spun in a circle sucking anything on the surface down.  What did not spin down was forced down. Anything small on the surface would be sucked down and  in very big trouble.  Let’s just say tubing is not going to be a concession here.   Our boat was not allowed to head past the whirlpool because Canadian law forbids taking any boats into class 6 rapids. We were holding our place just off the side main rapids.  You have a huge respect for the river from this vantage point and realize why there is no one on the river up here besides these powerful boats made for this. Next the captain went into the rapids below the whirlpool coming down river. This time the wall of water passed over the first six rows of seats and landed directly on my family.  We loved it.  We had to do one more set of rapids twice for the company photographer again. The place probably makes 20% of their income on photos that are emailed from a place on the river to the printers in the store.   When we saw the picture in the store you can barely see anyone in their seats because we were completely splashed over.  We highly recommend this ride if you like water, boats, history and some good safe adventure.  The web site on the company had a question and answer section. One question was “will you get wet?” The answer was “no you will get soaked”. They were on target.  In order to be more comfortable we wore bathing suits with rain pants.  My shirt was only a little damp when we got off the boat and my bathing suit was moderately wet.  Some people opted to pass on the rain gear and just went in bathing suits and T shirts under there flotation vest.

The next stop was lunch in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  NoL is a quaint touristy town. Far from the tackiness of Niagara Falls, this is the place of the Shaw and Shakespeare festivals.   You will find quaint boutiques and shops here along with a few places to eat. There was also a historical pharmacy store dating from the 1860’s on the main street where people can see what things were like.

Our next destination was the outlet shopping center 2 miles from Niagara Falls or 45 minutes from this pretty town. It was a perfect time for my 3 passengers to nap.

The outlet stores here had something for everyone.  The kids bought stuff at Nike and Reebock.  Maureen bought shoes at ECCO and clothes at Liz Claiborne.  There was a chocolate stop in the middle of the mall for a break as well as the sock shop outlet where loaded up on.   Shopping in Canada is a good deal as the currency is 30% less than the U.S. dollar.   Keep in mind though that you get hit with two taxes worth 15%!

 **NOTE: You can get half your taxes back at the border on the way out like we did. It is an easy process.  What we did not know is that you qualify for taxes on receipts of hotels or goods worth a minimum of $50. Had I known this in advance I would have told my wife to spend $5 more at Liz’s to boost the sale up to $50.  Anyway, we got back $45 in cash at the duty free store by Rainbow Bridge from all the other purchases.  Well, we sort of got the money back.  Maureen promptly bought her belated Mother’s Day present of a tax free Swarski Austrian crystal at the shop with the refund and then some the next morning on the way home.

With a full day under our belt we headed back to the hotel, dropped off all the good stuff we got (including my Nike driver), changed and headed to Tony Roma’s Ribs next to the hotel.  Tony Roma’s reminds me of the chocolate fudge we ate the other day.  I never hear anyone at home saying let’s go to Tony Roma’s, yet I have seen them in Shanghai, Orlando, Vegas, and other places around the world where people visit.  Tony Roma’s food was fine, the service was average and we all finished by 9PM making our way to the inclinator for the ride down to the overlook on Horseshoe Falls.  This time when we on the bottom we headed to the point where the water drops off.  There is a place that you are almost above where it takes the plunge. This is an impressive view.  From here we headed to do a few touristy things.  My son Daniel wanted to go on the Pile Driver ride on Clifton by the WWF store. For several dollars (we used a coupon for a buck off) they put you in a seat and raise you 200 feet up on a tower. It actually looks like one of those pile drivers at a construction site.  Then they boost you up 50 feet at time with mini drops until you are on the top.  Finally when you are on the top they make you think about the drop and enjoy the view. Daniel waved to us and then plunged. The seats free fall about 100 feet and slow to a bungee like stop sending you up about 50 feet and then dropping you again another 75 feet bungeeing you up 25 feet for a smaller drop.  He really liked the ride. Next it was off to the “Adventure Dome”.  We had the theatre to ourselves. This was the early version of the Imax where you have a 180 degree screen and different action sequences giving you the feel of being in the action. If I did not know better the film could have been 30 years old!  The price was again about $6 with our dollar coupon. Next it was off to one of the game lands for a ride, video games, skeeball and other stuff where you spent a moderate amount of money for tickets that get you small valueless prizes.  Of course we had to finish the night with another caramel apple for Melissa and Maureen to share and a CDN$ 6 cab ride at 12:15 back to the hotel to pack and get some sleep.   

Sunday 7:30AM: The  alarms rings and up we go to  light breakfast at the lounge and off to the duty free store at 8:30 for the tax refund and Maureen’s Mother’s day Gift.  We cleared Customs with no real formalities and 40 minutes later we at the airport. (why is it when you fly in you need forms and things look so serious but when you drive into the U.S. it is so much easier?)

Because of no Custom’s delays and no traffic we got to the airport 90 minutes in advance which was 30 minutes too early.   Jet Blue was full and on time again landing us at JFK in 55 minutes. It took another 15 minutes for luggage though and we were back at the house at 1:45.  Again Niagara Falls Duty Free shop to house in an easy  4 ½ hours.

It was a nice trip and we accomplished everything we needed with out pushing ourselves with the exception of getting up 7:30AM Sunday. I would call this a nice weekend for a family.  I would only recommend taking this trip during the warmer months.

email Tab Hauser at tabh@hascorelays.com www.hascorelays.com