Jalousie Resort, Back To St. Lucia  *Now Sugar Bay Resort*

Photos and Stories by Tab Hauser

www.tabhauser.com  Home Page tab@tabhauser.com

The southern half of St Lucia is an amazing place.  It has all the characteristics of an island that l like. There are pretty mountains and lush tropical forests complete with waterfalls to hike to.  It offers easy snorkeling or diving adjacent to pretty beaches. Here the people are friendly and the food is always good because it is all produced or caught locally.  Another words, St. Lucia has everything anyone would want in an island vacation.

This was our third visit to St. Lucia in 12 months.  A year earlier we spent a week in a two room villa at the end of the road at Marigot Bay overlooking the Caribbean Sea complete with a private sunset view.  We enjoyed being on our own and not part of any hotel because it made us explore different beaches and places each day as well as try different restaurants in the area.  It was a great way to explore St. Lucia.  On the last day on this trip we visited Jalousie Resort. We liked it so much we knew we had to go back there.   (For details on Exploring St. Lucia go to http://www.tabhauser.com/Stluciabytabhauser.htm )

Jalousie Plantation or Tides Sugar Beach is Perfectly Placed Between the Pitons

At the end of October in 2010 we had arranged a 5 night visit back to St. Lucia.  This was to celebrate my birthday and our friends their 25^th anniversary. Jalousie Plantation (now called Tides Sugar Beach) was picked as for our hotel because we enjoyed our day visit ten months earlier. Their private fine sandy beach squeezed between the scenic pitons makes an ideal setting.  The trip started off on a sour note as our good friends could not make it at the last minute.  Three days later and late in the season, Hurricane Tomas visited and turned the southern part of St. Lucia to ground zero for death and destruction. 

 (See Hurricane Tomas Ordeal at http://www.tabhauser.com/St%20Lucia%20Hurricane%20Tomas.htm  for details on the mess we were in)  

Ten weeks after being evacuated from Jalousie Plantation we returned with two other couples.  My goal was to finish my birthday week with close friends, good food and a beautiful beach while escaping the below freezing temperatures of New York.  It did not hurt that we were able to fly round trip direct at a good rate!

      A Very Friendly Welcome                                                                    20 Minutes Later Our Friends Are Working On a Second Round

To get to the hotel we rented a Toyota Prado Land Cruiser.  This was the largest SUV one can rent on the island.  As you can’t fit 6 adults in it with luggage our car rental company arranged a separate smaller SUV to take our things to Jalousie.  This worked out perfect and with a quick stop for some vodka, local rum, beer and Pringles we were at the hotel in less than an hour.  At the Jalousie we were met by Aquinas who was our shared butler for the next few days down by the Sugar Mill suites. Before the luggage was out of the SUV he had delivered to us a tall refreshing rum punch complete with island grown pineapple to quench our thirst.  From there he took us to our suite where we simply signed a form bypassing any front desk formalities.  The best part of check in was that we grabbed our bathing suits, changed quickly and asked Aquinas to unpack our luggage while we hit that beach.  We were anxious to hit the beach and soak in the late afternoon warm tropical air, swim and watch the sun set with a five masted sailing ship in the foreground.  It was a great way to end a long day.

     A Beach Pretty View On Our First Evening

For dinner that night we asked Aquinas to make 7:30 reservations for the beach barbeque that was complete with bon fire and live music.  I usually pass on island BBQ’s but we did not want to leave the resort that first night and the food looked too good to pass on.  Tonight’s barbeque included cooked to order Caribbean lobster, scallops, steaks, shrimp, burgers, fish, salads and a host of side dishes all with the sand under our feet and stars above.

  A Beautiful Lazy Day Beach Day

Saturday was a lazy beach day for us. This started with lounging under large palapas on the resorts comfortable cushioned reclining chairs followed by some good snorkeling at the roped off marine sanctuary adjacent to beach. Lunch was brought to us beach side rather than go to the restaurant.  The afternoon was spent swimming, reading, playing catch, napping along with having the occasional cocktail.  It was great to be out of the cold snowy weather from back home.    Pre-dinner cocktails were with our friends on our large covered patio. This patio had a large couch, plunge pull and mini-bar over looking Petit Piton and could entertain 20 people if you wished to throw a party.  For dinner we drove up to Dasheene where Chef Orlando’s talents produce very good continental and Caribbean dishes at the Hotel Ladera resting on the ridge above Jalousie Plantation. 

Two Views Of Marigot Bay

On Sunday our second day the weather at the resort was overcast with a constant light rain. With this in mind we decided that today would be a road trip to show our friends the island and escape the rain to the drier north.   After breakfast we piled into the SUV and headed north. We made stops at various overlooks as well as drove through Soufriere, Canaries and then through a few back streets of the fishing village of Anse la Raye.   I have driven on this windy, scenic road a dozen times but today was different. On this drive we got to witness Hurricane Tomas’s destruction of the hills, homes and roads. The first thing we noticed was that artists that lived and sold their work above Soufriere were gone. It looked like part of a mountain dropped on them sending everything and everyone over the cliff.  Just ten weeks earlier the people here gave us directions on a rainy night when we were trying to find a restaurant nearby.

As we winded our way up to Marigot Bay we saw the repairs being done to the road as well as the steep hills. We also marveled at how thick and beautiful the rain forest is.  At Marigot Bay we stopped for the view. Marigot Bay is where the original Dr. Doolittle movie was filmed as well as the scene of a famous sea battle between the French and British.   From Marigot Bay it was on to Castries the island’s capital.  With only one cruise ship in and it being Sunday, most of the market vendors were closed and the city was looking sleepy.  From Castries we headed further north past Rodney Bay taking a short cut on a dirt road heading to Cas En Bas Beach. 

En Cas Bas Beach With Kite Surfer In Background                                                                 Rocket Booster That Floated To The  Beach

Cas En Bas is a long perfectly shaped crescent beach. It is on the Atlantic or windward side and is a very popular kite surfing beach.  Here the guys took a swim, talked to kite surfing instructors and grabbed a rum punch while the ladies took a long walk to the end of beach.  After a delicious lunch at Marjorie’s we headed back but this time on the paved road to Reduit Beach for a quick look. What our group realized is that this section of St Lucia was not as pretty as southern part.  Here we saw shopping areas, fast food and other tourist things we try to avoid when traveling.  What this area does have is a long but narrow beach with a view of Pigeon Island and its fort across the bay.  After leaving Reduit Beach we made our way back to Marigot Bay with a stop at JJ’s so we can visit Sherille’s bakery counter. Back in January we bought her lemon cake and liked it so much we needed to get some more.

View To Pigeon Island and Fort On Top                                                                    Reduit Beach

On our third day we did the two tank dive.  Diving from Jalousie is easy and the coral reef sites are just a few minutes away from the resort.  Here we found the waters clear and warm.  This was an easy dive as we drifted with the current.  Our first dive was called Superman’s Flight because the wall above the dive site was filmed in the movie Superman II. The second dive was on the reverse side of Petite Piton and was also a drift but in the opposite direction.  On these dive sites we saw coral shrimp, crabs, eels and various small tropical fish along with both hard and soft coral.  The rest of the afternoon was spent at the beach. We found the service on the beach for cocktails and lunch prompt. All one needs to do is simply lift the red flag by your chair and within minutes someone appears to help

Creatures on the Coral Reefs of St Lucia

              Juvenile Drum Fish                   

The next morning we drove to Canarsie which is the area where we visited a remote waterfalls and inviting swimming hole a year earlier.  With a stop in the bakery on the corner by the bridge we continued a couple of miles on a dirt road until it was blocked with debris from the hurricane.  Rather than climb over it with our very ample 4X4 we scouted on foot ahead because making a U turn would have been nearly impossible due to the road being too narrow.  This turned out to be a good decision because 150 yards further there was a small bridge wiped out from the storm.  Our hike to the falls turned out to be a pretty hike in the rainforest. We only made it about 1 ½ miles before turning around.  As this falls is not on any map we really had no idea how much further we needed to walk. This was compounded by slippery and steep switch backs on the path that would have exhausted us.  After our hike we drove back with a stop just a few minutes away from the resort called Piton Falls.  At Piton Falls you pay $3.00 and walk down a path to where you see two small manmade pools. One pool has a PVC pipe running into it with very warm water while the other pool has a natural warm water falls flowing into it.  The water flows from high up where it escapes after being heated from deep underground.   One can get a decent warm water massage from standing under it and letting it hit your back.  It is worth a stop here when you are in the area. 

         Piton Warm Waterfalls Massage                           Mike & Sandy Enjoying A Good Soaking At Piton Falls

This evening started early as we were invited by Chef Orlando to the manager’s cocktail party at Dasheene in the Ladera Hotel.  Here guests are served complimentary sparkling wine, an herbal-ginger infused rum punch or a coconut infused rum while munching on hor’dourves.  While all this is tasty the real star of the evening is the magnificent sunset one sees from the open air lounge and bar.  The view includes both pitons and the bay below with the setting sun and the skies afterglow between them.  During the cocktail party we were invited to visit one of the suites of Ladera.  The suites here are luxurious with much of it open-air to the view. Each suite gets it own little private pool (and I do mean private). The shower is also open air but private.  Between the fans, being on top of the ridge and the tropical breezes, sleeping we were told is quite comfortable.   While the accommodations are first rate the disadvantage is you are not on the beach. The hotel does provide complimentary shuttles to two different beaches below.

       A Beautiful Sunset Setting From Ladera

  Ken & Carol  Enjoying The Ladera Sunset

After seeing the sun go down and the sky’s purple color dissipate we got back in the SUV for the 25 minute ride south to Debbie’s in Labourie.  Debbie’s has a reputation for using only the freshest island ingredients cooking them in a Caribbean-Creole method.  We found them very accommodating to requests that were not on the menu and the food plentiful.    Our group ordered as main course stuffed chicken, roasted whole fish, mahi and shrimp.  What was served along with our entrees was enough to feed a small army.  Side dishes were served family style in which ten different bowls of vegetables or starches were placed on every available inch of our table.  Not only was the food delicious but inexpensive as well.  We were the only tourists on this quiet Tuesday night with the other tables having local couples or friends.  For desert we shared her homemade chocolate rum cake which was sweet and not bitter as rum cakes can sometimes be. Put Debbie’s in Labourie high on your list of places to eat..

 Tasty Side Dishes Took Up Every Inch Of Room On Our Table At Debbie's         Who Would Not Want To Put A Fork Into This?

On Wednesday we were heading home. We wanted to get the most of the day so we got up earlier and hit the beach.  As we had a late afternoon flight, the Jalousie staff allowed us to keep one suite for our group  to store our bags and have use of the shower.  After soaking in every possible minute of this last day with the sand at our feet and sun and pitons above us, it was time to say good bye.  Fresh snow awaited me once more time on my driveway.

 Petite Piton With Jalousie Resort AKA Tides Sugar Beach                 Close up: Ladera Above, Jalousie Plantation Below With White Sandy Beach

IF YOU GO:

Transportation:

Flying to St. Lucia is easy as there are direct flights from several U.S. Cities. There are also plenty of connections through Miami or San Juan. You can get direct flights from New York on American or Jet Blue at reasonable fares with advance planning.

To get around you can arrange for a taxi through your hotel or rent a car.  On each of our last three visits to St. Lucia we opted to rent an SUV. It is a matter of wanting to get around on our own and not paying the steep taxi fares.  Having a vehicle allowed us to drive around the island and eat in different places.  Driving is on the left or British style and the roads are curvy but well maintained.  My secret to driving on the “wrong” side is to take two post-it notes with the words “THINK LEFT” and place one under my line of site and another one in the middle of the windshield. I have driven so many times on the other side it is not an issue but I keep the notes just in case my mind wonders off.   An SUV is better than a car here because many of the hotel roads down to the beaches on are pretty rutted out. Also, I like the added traction on the sharp turns of having a 4 X 4 in case it rains. There are several things that are worth leaving the resort to see and having your own wheels makes it worth it. We have used two rental companies. They can be found at www.costless-rentacar.com and www.al-rentals.com 

  Morning View From Suite 5 Sugar Mill Suite                                                      Rainbows Over Jalousie Are Not An Unusual Occurrence

Jalousie Plantation: (Changing to Tides Sugar Beach)

This is the picture perfect resort that sits by itself on one the prettiest pieces of real estate in the Caribbean.  Staying here is all luxury. On our last visit we stayed in the villas up on the hill. There you can rent a one or two bedroom house with a small swimming pool and a large bathroom complete with  large shower and soak tub  On our last trip we opted to save a little money and booked the recently renovated Sugar Mill Suites close to the pool and beach.  We paid $75 a day extra to have what is called the “Luxury” suites that included a shared butler, patio and private plunge pool.  Our suite number 5 had the largest and most private patio of the group. Our bedroom was large and when we awoke we had the view of Gros Peton from our bedside.  Rooms come with internet, DVD players, A/C, fridge, coffee and tea, robes and internet. What is nice about staying in the Sugar Mill Suites is that you are a two minute walk to the beach, pool and restaurants. While the mini vans run regularly to the villas it was nice to be close to our suite in case we needed something. As both types of accommodations are excellent, your choice should be based on you needs and budget.  As mentioned earlier it was a treat to be unpacked by our butler whose service was excellent. The upgrade to the “luxury” suites got us the larger balcony and higher level of service.   We also like the idea of by passing any check in line. Jalousie’s staff is excellent and very attentive. It was nice that people from the different departments remembered us and seemed sincerely glad that we came back.

Maureen With a Cuptertino Special          Pepper Pot Is A Specialty On St. Lucia                      Maureen Alone On The Beach At Dusk

Food at the resort was always tasty. We learned from Executive Chef Cuptertino Ortiz that during the six week shut down the entire staff went through a complete retraining.  We liked the food on an earlier stay but you can see a tastier improvement on this visit. We also appreciated him taking on a few special requests.   There are two restaurants to choose from for dinner and we liked the two distinct atmospheres between them. In the main building is the chic looking bar/lounge. The lounge area is decorated with all different original art and has large couches and chairs. The bar is also tastefully decorated.  For lunch you can eat from a beach side menu or sit down at the Bayside Restaurant. Breakfast we were happy to say was not buffet but full service with many choices from usual to island flavored themes.   We were happy to say service was prompt and not on “island” time as we have seen in other places.  

For information on Jalousie Resort go to www.jalousieplantation.com or www.tidesresorts.com

Food:

Jalousie Plantation/Tides Sugar Beach: Convenient and very tasty.

Debbie’s in Labourie is a must if you are on this side of the island.

Dasheene’s in Ladera is worth visiting. Get there before sunset

Marigot Bay: Wander about on both sides of the bay where you will find places to eat for different budgets

Anse la Raye: Go there for the Friday night fish festival. There you will fresh fish prepared a few different ways along with lobster, Johnny cakes and typical Caribbean side dishes. 

Gros Islet Jump Up: This is a Friday night fish festival on a larger scale and a party atmosphere but it is too far north if you are on the south side.

Please email any questions or comments to Tab Hauser at tabh@hascorelays.com home page www.tabhhauser.com

Jalousie / Tides Sugar Beach Cocktails Sugar Mill Suite 5, Friends Enjoying Pre-Dinner Cocktails

**Please click the thumbnail photo to enlarge

   Lounging At The Cane Bar                                                                                At Superman's Flight                            Ladera Sunset

The WInter Escape Gang,  January, 2011 on En Cas Bas Beach St Lucia with 4 X $