Voyage 8/12 – 19th, 2000
Tab and Maureen Hauser
We arrived at the town of Whitehall in the evening 8/11 after a nice lunch at the CIA and a drive through some heavy rain near Albany. We checked into the Finch and Chubb Inn and Restaurant. The Finch and Chubb has been in business as a ships supplier since 1786 and has been a nice inn for many years. Had a nice dinner and settled in after leaving a message for Dave the manager of Blue Heron boats to tell him we will ready his briefing early.
August 12th: After breakfast at the local diner and shopping for food supplies for the boat we took a few pictures of Whitehall and headed to the boat. It should be noted that Whitehall is at the very bottom of Lake Champaign located now at lock 12. This is the birthplace of the American Navy. General Benedict Arnold built a fleet of small sailing and rowing boats to take on the British navy coming from Montreal and the north.
The battle of Valcour Island north of here was a defeat on the Americans (colonists at the time). He lost all the ships by either grounding, capture or self burning them but was able to slow the British down for the winter allowing the colonial troops to rebuild at Fort Ticonderoga and the area. It was this slow down that allowed the colonists to be beat the British at Saratoga making this the turning point of the revolutionary war.
Back to the voyage…
Dave and Marge gave us the once over on the boat. A 34 foot, 6 ton craft valued at $170K new. This is its second season in use. Equipped with small fridge, generator (that did not work) microwave, stove, 2 comfortable sleeping cabins, saloon with TV / VCR, 2 AC units and upper bridge for controlling the boat. We also had 2 bikes strapped onto the deck by the bow incase we needed them in one of the towns we were to stop.
At about 1PM we departed with Dave on board showing us “the ropes” literally at Lock 12 where we were rise up. 15 feet to the level of the first canal. To get into a lock you travel at “dead slow”. Maureen would put on rubber gloves and while I stopped the boat, grab a rope hanging down and then walk the rope to me. While in the lock we both hold ropes to keep the boat steady as the water fills the lock and raises us (or lowers us as we did on locks further down the canal system).
We dropped Dave off immediately after passing through lock 12 and started on our leisurely 10 mph journey south. Along the way we saw several large blue herons usually perched on a branch or standing in the water waiting for a small fish to go by.
On this day we went through 7 locks. All were out incident except one lock where I thought the boat was in neutral but actually was just in reverse. The boat backed up very slowly while the doors were closing. Fortunately I jumped up to bridge and put it in forward. At the same time the lock keeper started to open the doors. (Boating is not an exact art and bonehead mistakes do happen!) We decided that next time we enter a lock we go further in. Locks are about 300 feet long by 40 feet wide. They look like a big open casket when they are empty and both doors are closed. They also make a great place for sound effects.
After lock 5 we pulled into the Schuylerville Marina and got a slip. We hooked up our power cords but opted to pass on the cable connection as we did not want to rent the cable and did not feel like watching TV anyway. The owner recommended and made reservations for dinner for us at the Dove Gate B&B. It was a 10 minute walk into this sleepy town. The food was very good and cheap. The waitress claimed they come “all the way up from Albany for their chicken and biscuit dinners”. I had that and Maureen had a puffed pastry chicken and mushroom dish with a good Italian sausage quisadilla type appetizer. I had the famous chicken and biscuit dinner that was fair. (NOTE: Great chocolate mouse type desert).
8/13/00
8:30AM: After a quick breakfast on board we were again heading south connecting where the Hudson River and the Canal meet. Here the Hudson river is damned and locked to control the waters and boating. The locks were getting easier to handle and we started to now lower in the locks instead of raise in them as we headed eventually to the first lock, Federal Lock, that would take us to 6” above sea level depending on tides. Most locks lifted or lowered us 15 to 19 feet.
It was pretty cool doing this. On one lock Maureen got out while I held the rope so she can video and take pictures of it. One thing we noticed is that there were no other boats in the locks except the last one. We only passed a few boats while we were on the Champlain – Hudson Canal (about 80 miles).
9:30AM: We stopped briefly in Mechanicville. This is old mill & canal town that has had better days. The only thing open was McDonalds, CVS and an Eckerd as well as sandwich shop bakery where we bought two fudge topped cookies. I got a lesson from the manager of McDee’s on their cooking while Maureen was on the phone there. As it was quiet this Sunday morning at McDee’s the manager & I started to talk to me. I asked him if they cook the chicken or if they get it pre cooked and frozen for the salads and sandwich wraps. He said they used to get it pre-cooked and frozen and it was not good so they get the chicken now raw and frozen and cook the chicken. Well, I felt obligated when he said I should try a few chicken fajita soft taco wraps. (It was not bad for McDee’s even though I hate to admit I actually bought something there)
10:30: Leaving Mechanicville. This is one of the few places where the town offers free docking, free water and power to passing boaters in hopes they stay and buy something in town to help the economy. At Schuylerville we paid $1.50 per foot to stay there. The boaters at Mechanicville were not the type we’d hang with but you get what you pay for.
1:30 As we pass the last of the State run locks it is nice to know these people that run them are very nice and helpful. If you tell them you are going to the next lock they will radio or call ahead to have the lock ready for you. This worked many times.
The last lock was the one run by the Federal Government. It also had the longest wait and was the largest. We had to constantly jockey the boat in small circles outside the lock because of the current caused by the dam. We also had 2 other boats waiting behind us.
Finally after 45 minutes it was ready and opened. We pulled a 10 point stop in the lock only to realized there were no ropes inside! We frantically pulled off the line on the bow cleat to lasso around a poll. The first time we could not get it around and the stern coast a little. The second time I got it wrapped with Maureen’s help and we held the boat in place with one rope. (nothing like looking like a bunch of newbies)
2PM: Finally out of Federal lock on Hudson 154 miles away from NYC. We were going now down river and with the out going tide. First stop Troy Town dock to diesel (only 11 gallons). We left Troy and headed south. 45 minutes later we were passing downtown Albany and a WW2 Navy Destroyer parked on the west side being restored. Rains starts but viz is OK.
We were headed for village of Coeyman for Coeyman Landing Yacht Club. We picked Coeyman’s because it was a place where we can see if the generator can be fixed per Blue Heron management
Arrive Coeyman at 5:30 to meet Hedy and Carl. They run the place and are the summer managers for Blue Heron at Marco Island where they do winter rentals on the boats.
A mechanic came aboard and pushed 2 hidden breakers in which the generator started.
(we learned later it would start and run 5 minutes as the impeller was gone on the generator and breakers were tripping due to overheating.
Nice dinner at Coeymans and a walk through town up hill and into the dark.
People just hanging out in front of homes. After about 10 minutes we headed back as not much was happening in this place. No stores, pubs, just many houses 100 + years old in varying stages of decay.
8/14
The next morning I took the bike around town and took pictures of the old architecture.
Nice old homes but many were not in good condition.
9AM: Leave to visit Coxsackie. We docked into the breeze and current at the town pier and walked past the town park and gazebo to this quaint village with a one long block business center. We took some pictures and videos of this town and left after 30 minutes as we were to early for lunch. This was one of the smallest villages we have seen and in very good condition. There were a couple of restaurants, bank, stores and old mill red brick building being restored for shops.
11:55: Arrive at town of Athens also on the west bank of the Hudson by taking the main channel and looping past the southern tip of an island and headed north. That kept the town of Hudson on the east side and Athens on the other.
We expected more things at Athens as it is a bigger town. The river book we used as part of our journey said “Athens is full of beautiful and not so beautiful old buildings”. It also said there were antique shops and some stores. I guess back in 1997 there were more things here. We stopped in a laundry mat for directions on where things are only to be told there is one bagel place in town opposite their oldest house.
After walking around 45 minutes and taking pictures of various buildings we bought a bagel to help the local economy and left. We can safely say about Athens “Been there and done it”.
12:55 under way passing Catskill Creek at 1:30 with the reverse tide going back up river.
2:10: Marker Green 108 avoided a large barge and tug on a curve in the river by pinching the green marker 108. We had plenty of room to move but had to give the barge lots of room as he takes ½ mile to stop.
2:50: Overcast conditions turn to rain. We don rain gear and pick up speed a little while enroute to Kingston. I call Dockmaster at Kingston to make sure he has a slip for us. (no problems as the dock is empty)
4:10: Maureen rounds the light house allowing another boat to go first as we keep the wall to starboard and the markers to port. We are cruising into the channel at 5mph and pass the Maratime Museum and an old mill house restored to a private home with beautiful weeping willows.
4:20 town dock: 10 perfect dock, tie up, hook power. We meet the Dock Master who rounds down our dock fee to $30 but requests we put on slip a 30 foot boat instead of 34 foot. What a nice old salt.
With rain coats we walk into the restored water front district of Kingston and look at the pubs, restaurants and shops. It is about 2 blocks. The bakery in town is run by a CIA guy who gives us a dinner recommendation
We opt for 3 appetizers at the Mexican place and then back for nap. Leave for dinner for the Plum Bayou (Cajun place) which was good.
That night we talk to guests and crew of the 185 foot long cruise boat full of seniors and then talk to the other people on the dock near us. They have a 35 foot trawler style motor yacht owned by another old salt who worked on freighters and tugs his whole life until retiring. They come aboard our boat to check it out also.
8/15:
8:20 Leave Kingston for a long trip down to West Point to see if we can dock there.
10:00: Called West Point Academy and got special permission to dock there for the night. He advised to have plenty of boat fenders as it is a working dock.
11:00AM: Call Hyde Park Marina and made reservations with Joe for Wed night docking. Joe said OK and will even give us a lift to CIA as well.
11:25: Pass under Beacon Newburgh Bridge with Poppell Island just with sight.
12PM: Let anchor out south of Poppell Island off the main channel for a dip and break.. This place was a complete Scottish Castle. It was used less than 100 years ago as the private residence to a guy named Bannerman. He used one part of the castle for living and the other to store munitions that he sold world wide. The castle caught fire and he was forced to leave. The island has been deteriorating through neglect and vandalism over the years. Recently a group formed to save the island and its structures.
Maureen and I went for a dip here. I sat on the life preserving so the incoming tide would not take me up river and just floated.
1:10: Anchor up and on the way to West Point which is about 6 miles down river. (or 35 minutes) The river starts to narrow after Cold Spring
1:45: Arrive West Point early so dock master advised on radio to come back. We then head cross river to Garrison On The Hudson to get water at the local yacht club.
2:00 We head at a leisurely pace to Bear Mountains Bridge. This is a pretty bridge that is anchored into Anthony’s Nose on one side (900 feet). We do a U – Turn underneath it, toot the horn and head back to West Point. Enroute Shelly calls to say they are on the dock waiting for us as we called them earlier in the day to meet us.
2:45: Dock at West Point and sign in. Rick the Dock Master says we are on our own and will be the only cruise boat other than the few Army boats and one tourist boat tied up. We are also 150 feet from Con Rail RR tracks and the trains come by about every hour.
I did not know that there are RR tracks under most of W.P. and they come out by the dock
3:15 We shove off with Arnie and Shelly and head up to Poppel Island to give them a ride and back at 5PM to go to dinner.
8:30 arrive back at WP and walk around the grounds at night. Lots of cadets running in the dark. We find a pretty pond near the practice field.
5:30 AM!: A humongous lightening storm is hitting. Lightening flashes literally every 3 to 5 at first then 5 to 10 seconds. (I even video tape the bolts hitting the ground) We are lucky as there is no wind or waves. It last about 15 minutes.
August 15,00
8:15AM: leave West Point in Hazy Skies with at high tide. We customized the soft top on the bridge to give us shade from the sun but fresh air to the front. From now to the end we will be northbound.
10:40 Pass under Beacon Newburgh Bridge
12:10 Under Poughkeepsie Bridge making good time with a breeze from the stern and smooth water.
12:40: Arrive Hyde Park eeMarina and meet another old river salt named Joe. We put the boat on the outside dock and have lunch on the patio here. After lunch we are told to park on the most inner slip which requires a series of 90 degree turns and a bunch of back and forth maneuvers. I really like bow thrusters that point the point!
Hyde Park is not the nicest Marina. No real amenities other than power and water.
Joe goes line crazy tying us up 4 different ways in calm water.
Oh, we are parked 75 feet from the Amtrak line. (Next time we go to Hyde Park we dock at Norrie Point State Park 2 miles up and pass this place)
At 6PM Joe gives us a lift to the CIA where we view the great new students building and have dinner at the Italian Restaurant. It is a 15 minute walk back to boat.
August 17th
8:45AM: After a series of back and forth maneuvers and using the bow thrusters to miss the sail boat behind us from the Bahamas we leave like pros from the marina.
10:45 Maureen lines us up with the light house to go back into Round Out Creek and into Kingston to pick up a sandwich, get diesel, pump out the head as well as go 3 miles up the creek to see what is there. Not much at the end of the creek so we spin around and pass the marinas and work boats leaving Kingston.
1:45 Under Kingston Bridge
3:25 Make way into Catskill Creek and down ¾ mile to Catskill Marina.
We pull into a tight slip between 2 boats from Long Island and sign in. The dock hand hooks us up to power and cable TV. This is a nice place J! We put on swim suits and go to their heated pool and relax while talking to a boating club / family from Huntington. The oldest couple has a 50 foot trawler style with 3 separate bedrooms. His kids came in 30 and 40 footers.
After our swim we walk around Catskill at 6PM but the place is skuzzy. The buildings are OK but the people are not friendly looking and the neighborhood near the marina we were told was not the safest. After walking half way into town we turn around and eat at the restaurant by the marina. We discuss that there is several million dollars worth of yachts and boats in front of us and yet ¼ away it is pretty poor.
That evening we crash the boating family’s bon fire complete with marshmallows.
They advise us to go to breakfast in town at the Mayflower which we did the next day.
August 18th
10:20: After walking the entire main street of Catskill and having breakfast we leave.
Catskill is the county seat of Green County. A lot of law offices in quaint old buildings around the court house. It looks like subsidized housing a couple of blocks away from the main street.
11:05: After passing the Athens light house we go to the Hudson Power Boat Associations marina in the town of Hudson and ask permission to tie to the dock for an hour. Dock master said no problem and his friend gave us a lift to end of town a mile away so we can make copies of the charts and walk back.
We only planned on staying an hour or so but wound up here about 3 ½ hours.
We had a bland lunch at the St Charles Hotel. (Skip this place next time and go to the New Earth next time in the middle of Warren Street.) We started on the top of Warren Street and walked west back to the river. Warren Street is the main street. This place is the nicest of the river towns we had been to. The buildings are all restored and full of antique shops. The brochure in town says there may be as many as 50 of them.
There is a town square that has a set of locomotives go through it once in a while to pick up rail cars. It is kind of strange that all of a sudden the traffic light will turn red like a light should. Then you hear the loud train horns going off a few times. No rail road crossing bells or barriers. It is like toot the horn and get out of the way. About an hour after the locomotives went by they returned with about 30 cars in tow. People just waited on the corner as if traffic was just passing as normal. One guy on the corner grabbed the ladder as the train was moving at 3mph and climbed a few steps, walked between the cars and climbed down on the other side so he did not have to wait for the train to pass. (You have to see the video I guess).
We took photos and videos of these pretty old structures. Maureen was also shopping for an antique chest to hold blankets. One shop we went into was on three floors. Maureen noticed a tight circular stair case and we went into the shop to see what the inside of the 100+ year old buildings looked like.
This was our prettiest and longest stop on the Hudson. The dock master and his friend warned us not to go off Warren Street and only come in the day time from the docks.
2:30PM: Shoved off from Hudson and headed to north to Castleton on the Hudson. Castleton is the most northly of the river towns and there is a marina to dock at with a small town ½ block away.
3:30: Note for next trip: Had the generator worked or if were prepared to cook on a grill we may have stayed at Saratoga Park that is run by the state on the river. There is a small dock to pull into and at night I would have pulled off it and anchored in a quiet cove beside it. This was at river marker RED 154
4:25: Arrive at Castleton on the Hudson. We decide to cruise by it and check it out. The town looks very small with nothing worth stopping at. I radioed Dock Master who tells me we will only have an outside dock to the river because of our size. As Maureen and I were thinking to stay or not, the Amtrak train came through the town blowing its horn 100 feet away. With that in mind we headed back down river 6 miles to Coeymans Marina where with a little coaxing and connecting our power cords together we had an inside dock and no trains.
5:00: Back at Coeyman Marina. We signed up and made dinner on board as well as had some Champaign. Afterwards we went to the bar at the marina to hear a local guitar duo and have salad and ice cream.
August 19th:
9:15: After “boat shopping” (we looked at a used Mainship 36 for the fun of it) we are under way. We will meet Dave and Marge from Blue Heron at 12:00 to give back the boat at the Troy Town Dock.
10:40: Pass the commercial dock, Port of Albany
11:30: Passed Albany and Rennselear and 15 minutes from Troy.
Note: It was interesting to see the old homes and buildings on the river and canal. It is also good to hear the river is much cleaner now and always improving.
It was a nice voyage, relaxing, fun and a bit adventurous. It was nice not having to have exact plans in advance also. This boat was also very good in maneuvering and comfort. (I would have liked a little more speed as 10 - 12 mph is a little slow when you go long distances but I would not want to much faster than 20 miles an hour either)
We look forward to finding a boat we can rent in the future and leave from Port Washington, travel around N.Y. and up to the Bear Mountain Bridge. This way we could see the river for all 154 miles and not miss the lower 30%.
11:45: Final Entry: Maureen checks the starboard fenders and lines and ease into the Troy Town Dock to get diesel. Total trip – 111 gallons at about 1.89 gallon. We go to lunch at the Troy Brewery and Restaurant and then back to the boat to unload. Something’s never change as we had to haul our stuff up the same long and steep gangways from the dock as they have done for almost 200 years!