Outer Island Experience, Abaco Cay, Bahamas
Story By Tab Hauser / Photos By Gary Lehman and Tab Hauser
home page www.tabhauser.com tab@tabhauser.com
Many people know of the Bahamas as Nassau, Freeport and Paradise Island. This is either through their day stop on a cruise boat or by staying at the big casino hotels on those islands. My goal on this trip was to experience the outer islands avoiding the crowds and slowing down to “island time”.
The Bahamas is a chain of 29 islands and over 600 cays sitting in the Atlantic Ocean east and south east of Southern Florida. Abaco Cay was the destination for our 12th annual “guys” trip. We picked Abaco Cay because like many outer islands, it is famous for world class fishing, diving and snorkeling as well as miles of beautiful fine powder beaches. We also liked its laid back friendly atmosphere. The condo resort Bahamas Beach Club at Treasure Cay was our home for 5 nights. It was picked because it was a one hour flight from Miami. Our goal was to dive, fish and then explore the even remote smaller islands nearby via a chartered self drive speed boat.
13th Annual Guys Trip! Gary Lehman, Michael Ehrlich, Kenneth Steinberg, Tab Hauser
As with any trip, weather has to be on your side. We had an unfortunate bit of bad luck to visit Abaco Cay during an unusual cold front that also brought above normal winds and choppy seas for most of our stay. With this being said we walked over to with Treasure Divers in Treasure Cay to go over our plans for the next four days. Brent White the owner of Treasure Divers is an enthusiastic, helpful person who seems to do anything to make his divers (or snorkelers) happy. He laid out a plan of an all day venture to a Fowl marine park and lunch at Nippers on Iguana Cay. The second day would be fishing with a 2 tank dive scheduled on the third day. On our 4th day we reserved a 27 foot 200 HP Rambo speed boat to go island hopping and snorkeling.
Venomous Lion Fish on Reef Near Abaco Cay DIver Hovering Above
As mentioned earlier, the weather was not cooperating on our first day for the run down to Fowl Preserve due to the winds. This was regrettable because Fowl is a “no-take” marine park known for its reef sharks and abundant sea life. Instead we dove closer to Treasure Cay at the “The Big O” followed by another one at Turtle Reef. These sites were picked because they were tucked just out of the way from the wind giving the boat only a small chop. Big O had us at a maximum of 59 feet. Its features were various hard and soft coral in relatively good condition. Toward the end of this dive we did spot a small eagle ray. Turtle Reef stayed true to its name with a two foot turtle spotted and going about its business while were taking its picture. This was a shallower dive profiling at 40 feet swimming along mostly soft corals and fans as well various smaller tropical fish.
A Pleasing Dive On The Big O Abaco Friendly Sea Turtle Going About Its Business
Day two had us cancel our fishing trip due to winds making the normally quiet Abaco Sound very rough. Plan B was to dive the Blue Hole cavern near Marsh Harbour but the cave diver required to guide us was not available. With fishing cancelled we elected to take a guided tour with Tanique who ran Abaco Gal Island Adventures. Tanique works for Brent but has her own company offering kayak mangrove tours or island driving tours. Our group decided this was going to be a dry day so we hopped in her pickup truck to learn about Abaco Cay. She started by taking us to a blue hole (or cenote as they are sometimes called) that was not used for diving due to the long drop into the water and no way to get out. We then visited the old section of Marsh Harbour as well as some pretty beaches along the way before stopping at Nancy’s for fresh snapper and fried chicken in Sandy Hole.
A Blue Hole or Sink Hole Off the Main Road Tanique of www.abacogal.com at Hole in the Wall Lighthouse
One place we asked to go to that not many locals see was the Hole-In-the-Wall Lighthouse. Getting there was a bit of an adventure driving on dirt rutted roads through Pine Barrens of the Bahamas National Trust in a park known for its parrots. After 16 miles and about 45 minutes we made it to an old lighthouse built in 1838. We found the complex abandoned yet the lighthouse doors opened for exploring. This is not a tourist destination (yet) so care must be taken when climbing the tower. Do not take any small children up to the top and any older children should have their hand held before you reach the top. The top of the lighthouse does not have adequate protection on the balcony. Adults should also use care when making it up to the highest level as well. This is a working lighthouse renovated and automated using solar power and car batteries. The glass around the top protecting the beacon is cracked and glued and the fence on the balcony on the top has seen better days. With all this said, take the climb carefully as the view is breathtaking and the inner works interesting. You can only visit here only if you rent an SUV.
Views from Hole In The Wall Lighthouse to the Forest View and Ocean
On our third day Brent from Treasure Divers advised us that the winds had shifted direction. He planned to take us to San Jacinto wreck followed by a dive at the Aquarium nearby because that was the area that had the calmest seas. At the dive site we did bounce around a bit while Brent and Tanique helped us gear up. With the swells as they were some our giant strides looked a bit like giant slides. The good news was that down below the visibility was 50 feet and the underwater swells manageable. The San Jacinto was scattered about giving us the full meaning of “wreck”. We learned that the ship was one of the first frigates having a steam engine and a rear screw. It was launched in 1850 and served the US Navy in Europe, East and West Indies, Africa and finally as a blockader of the south during the Civil War. Its 15 year life ended on New Year’s Day, 1865 when it hit a reef east of Abaco. During our dive what we saw were pieces of steel hull scattered about but the distinct features were the boilers and engine parts. The only way you were able to tell this was a ship was because of the aft section lying sideways with its prop still attached. Later research revealed to us that the guns and other parts of the ship were salvaged after the collision.
Watching the small pretty things underwater SS San Jacinto Wreck
Our second dive was on the Aquarium and just like its name implies, there were lots of small tropical fish swimming around the numerous fans and soft coral. Also, like some of the other dives, we saw large Lion Fish that are starting to overpopulate the area. Lion Fish are not indigenes to the area and have fewer enemies than when in their native waters. Brent said they eat lots of reef fish and stay protected due to their pointy spines that carry venom. We spotted 3 Lion Fish on our four dives averaging an impressive 18 inches. The only other place I saw these fish was on the Great Barrier Reef six years earlier and they were much smaller. The Aquarium was a shallower dive going no deeper than 40 feet but averaging around 20. This had us dealing with the swells that were coming and going from our sides. While it was a pretty dive, it was also an exhausting one. It did not help that our average temperature was an unusual 71 degrees.
A quiet street Hope Town Dive Master/ Guide Brent White Actual Newspaper 1793 discussing Tories Leaving N.Y.
On our last full day the seas were too rough for diving as all the reefs were on the windward side of the small islands that protected them. With overcast skies and we hired Brent to guide us around in the 27 foot speed boat we rented from JIC Boat Rentals around the corner from Treasure Divers shop. After slowly cruising through the bay I opened the throttle and zoomed across in Abaco Sound to Hope Town. After 25 minutes we slowed down in the harbor to view the pretty light house on one side and quaint village on the other side. After docking at the town dock we strolled around to see what the place looks like. Our first stop was the museum that displayed the islands history starting from when it was colonized by Loyalists (Tories) fleeing New York after the revolution. We then took to one of the small streets and looked at the old homes that have been restored. We also saw the picture perfect beach on the ocean side. After a stop at the waterside Cap’n Jack’s for some conch soup and fish wraps we headed back to the boat for the short trip to Man-O-War Cay.
Pretty View From Cap'n Jack's On Hope Town Approaching Man-O-War Car
Man-O-War Cay is a smaller island that has a history of ship building. We docked at Albury’s Sail Shop store only to find three elderly ladies with big smiles at their sewing machines producing bright colored canvas bags of different sizes. From here we strolled down to the shipyards of Albury Brother’s Boats where they produce fiberglass boats ranging from 20 to 27 feet in size. In one open aired building we saw a run-about being customized. From here we walked a loop around this dry island (as in no pubs) of 450 people getting back to the boat in a light rain. From Man-O-War Cay it was a twenty minute cruise Iguana Cay.
Speed Limit Sign on Queens "Highway", Man-O-War Cay Albury Brother's Boat Being Customized
Iguana Cay is a sleepy island made popular due to the famous Nippers Bar on the ocean side. Nipper’s attracts boaters and people via ferry from the mainland (Abaco Cay) for their Sunday pig roast, concerts and fun outdoor atmosphere. Brent said that when there is an event at Nippers it is hard to find a spot for your boat on any of the docks in the large bay. Nipper’s in Abaco caught the eye of the Hooters Hotel in Las Vegas and licensed the name for the pool bar at the hotel. At Nipper’s we drank the Nipper rum special and lunched on succulent conch as well as fresh grouper and mahi-mahi. Realizing that our 5PM return time for the boat was approaching the five of us climbed into Nipper’s micro van for a lift down to the dock. From there we zipped across the sound with a light rain above and small chop below. We had a great day with our only regret of not being able to snorkel off the boat due to the cooler temperatures brought on by the rain.
Nipper's On Iguana Cay With Brent White, Treasure Divers, Kenneth Steinberg, Gary Lehman, Mike Ehrlich and Tab Hauser (pulling Boar's ear)
Our last day had us fly home in the afternoon. With activities limited due to time our group took a long walk to the end of the beach at Treasure Cay heading around the tip and walking back through the quiet streets lined with pretty homes.
SEE "IF YOU GO" and a Gary Lehman musical Youtube link of this trip below...
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Delicious Conch Chowder and Conch Fritters Available Everywhere in Abaco. An Ice Cold Beer With A Nice View
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Inside Hall In The Wall Lighthouse Nipper's Pretty Painted Bulldozer
IF YOU GO:
Getting There:
There are two airports that service Abaco Cay. One is at Marsh Harbor and the other in Treasure Cay. American Airlines, who we had problems with on this trip, along with Continental Airlines, are the only airlines with a national connection through southern Florida to get here. A search on the net will reveal other regional airlines from Florida and Nassau.
Treasure Cay is more of a gated community verse Marsh Harbor which is a big full serviced town. Treasure Cay has a small supermarket, liquor store, golf cart rental, bakery, and a few small shops in two buildings warehouse style buildings.
Accommodations:
Bahamas Beach Club (www.bahamasbeachclub.com) is a condo resort complete with poolside grill and bar set on 3 miles of beach. We rented a very nice four bedroom unit from http://www.vrbo.com/240171 because they were lower in price than going direct with the resort. The main web site is www.vrbo.com for rentals worldwide.
Treasure Cay (www.treasurecay.com ) has rooms and suites overlooking the marina. The suites are duplex and very roomy for 2 or for a family that wants to put the kids downstairs. To get to the beach you walk a few minutes across the street. Cocoa’s is there beach side bar that has lounge chairs for guests. These are smaller than the Bahamas Beach Club but can be less money also depending on the unit size you need.
Food:
Most rentals come with a complete kitchen. This means you can get fresh fish and lobster (if in season) by simply asking around. We saw JIC Boat rentals offer both fish and lobster one day. The supermarket has a good but limited selection on all your cooking needs.
Café La Florence: This is a simple but good bakery. Capt. Forty and his wife serve breakfast that includes his soupy version of corned beef hash and grits. He has a good Johnny Cake which looks more like a loaf of bread with the taste a little like a pound cake. They also bake muffins and other cakes. The coffee is always hot and ready.
A Touch of Class: This place is located outside the Treasure Cay gate and where we ate twice. If you call 242-365-6195 they will pick you up. We found the food here very good and at an average of $10 less per dish than the Spinnakers at the Treasure Cay Resort. Recommended here as in many places is the grouper cooked different styles, cracked conch and Bahamian style chicken. (Conch fritters are served complimentary along with their fluffier version of Johnny Cake.) There Caesar’s salad was a good starter and the banana cream pie and coconut cream pie were calorie worthy of a taste.
Cocoa’s: This is attached to the Treasure Cay resort but on the ocean side. This open air bar / restaurant serves lunch every day. They do a BBQ dinner on Tuesdays which I would rate as average. We also had dinner here one night because Spinnaker’s across the road on the bay was closed for a private party. The food was good that night. The location is great.
Bahamas Beach Club Grill: The are directly adjacent to one of the swimming pools. During the season they serve the same menu for lunch and dinner with Friday being their upscale night. We found the salads and fish wraps with sweet potato fries and cole slaw very good.
Spinnakers: This is part of the Treasure Cay Hotel. We did not get a chance to dine here as the one night we intended to go we found the place closed for a private party. The place looks a bit upscale with menu to make any pleased.
Nancy’s at Sandy Hole. This is the only place in town to eat when you are at
the end the island. Her menu choices for us were chicken, fish and lobster. For
us she made a platter of snapper and her fried chicken along with peas and rice.
Cap’n Jack’s on Hope Town: This is fun bar with fine pub grub and a water view. We especially like the conch chowders that came in a spicy red as well as cream based. 242 366-0247
THINGS TO DO:
Treasure Divers www.treasure-divers.com. This is a class act that should stand out among small dive shops. We were treated with first class service. When we got back to the dock he told us to leave or our gear on board. He and his mate then rinsed our gear and stored them for us to use for another day. We regret we did not make his all day dive adventure but hope to be back again. Presently his boat holds 10 divers though he does not run with more than 8. If you have plans to be here book ahead by calling242-365-8571. Those in our group renting gear found the equipment in excellent shape. Brent White takes snorkelers and diver to near by reefs, can arrange a blue hole dive and does an island hopping tour on request.
Abaco Gal Island Adventures: www.abacogal.com
You can email Tanique at abacogal_tours@hotmail.com and set up anything to your liking. Her web site offers several things to do
JIC Boat rentals: www.jicboatrentals.com Jimmy Cash rents boats 21 to 27 feet. If you do not know anything about boating my recommendation would be to get the larger boat because you get a much smoother ride if the water gets a little choppy. The difference in the size of the boat can mean getting beat up out there or having a good day. You need to call to reserve a boat as they are not good about checking email. The number is 242-365-8582. You can also arrange a captain to go with you for $150. When in doubt get the larger boats for the extra money. The ride in any kind of choppy seas is much better.
Golf and Tennis: This is available year round on Treasure Cay
Sidney Hart Taxi Service: Sidney was personable and prompt for our pick up and
drop off to the Treasure Cay Airport. 242-475-0572
Nippers Iguana Cay
www.nippersbar.com
Getting Around: Many people here get around via golf carts. You can rent
one for $40 a day that will seat 4 adults (5 if you are friendly). We chose to
walk around as it was 10 minutes to anything we needed to get to in the
community.
Please see the below for a musical Youtube link produced by Gary Lehman.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfVeRn0KjDM
Please email comments, questions or advise to tabh@hascorelays.com
Homepage www.tabhauser.com